Thanks guys. Appreciate the advice.
The first time I did it, I was traveling with some bionic super-humans. We made it to the bivy above Winnie's slide and setup on that ridge. Absolutely beautiful. But we did it in less than 4 hours, which was much faster than I was physically prepared for. I was pretty much smoked and when some bad weather started to roll in, I was ready to throw in the towel. The other guys made the summit and returned safely but I sure as heck wasn't up to it.
I'll look into the Charmoz and see if I can find one. I haven't found a Trango here locally that I can try on but good to know that this class of boot is appropriate for Shuksan.
Edit to add: Yeah, DPS, I wouldn't mind seeing your gear list. My pack included everything and the kitchen sink. Like I said, I just didn't know what to expect so I brought it all. 30-35 lbs sounds about right. That's a typical day pack if I'm going out ice climbing, but in that case I'm carrying a 70 meter 9.8 mm rope, ice screws, full set of nuts, etc. - a lot more gear than required for Shuksan. And that includes my sleeping bag. I take it and a emergency bivy as a precaution, if for no other reason than to prevent someone from going into shock if they break a leg or something. Switch out the rope, loose some screws and nuts, add a tent and some meals and I imagine I will end up around 35 lbs.