H-Steven Song

Thanks Jason! Also this probably should be moved to the Trip Report section. Sorry. First post, not very familiar with the structure.

For a full report go to my website: http://stevensong.com/lincoln-peak This is my first ever post on Cascade Climbers and figured some of you might be interested in this trip. Matt Lemke and myself timed it right and climbed Lincoln in perfect condition on the morning of last Saturday. Approached from Middle Fork and drove to the second switchback. Camped at the last flat spot with a strip of moraine of dry ground. Cloudy whole day on Friday but cleared at evening and temperature dropped (just as expected). Snow started to freeze only 10 minutes after being out of the sun and by the time we started at 3 am the snow was rock hard so crampons from camp. Crux being the first bergschrund where the only possible attack required a pitch of 70-80 degree jug of snow piece. Matt soloed it and kicked in some steps. I used his steps and soloed it afterwards. Then we had to solo another short pitch of serac type of ice before able to traverse 45-degree towards the pillbox. Lots of front pointing and at least 10 smaller runnels had to be hopped across. Another couple huge runnels as we traverse a steeper pitch into the first gully and the first gully was easy by comparison. Just front-point up the middle of an "ultra runnel". Then climbed the snow arete to the top, traversed the uber-airy upper bowl and into the upper couloir. Another couple gigantic runnels and two patches of rocks had to be crossed. I asked for a belay on the second patch of rocks. Front-pointing again all the way to the col and then scrambled rock to the summit. 10 double-length rappels to get off. We did 11 because we screwed up teh second-to-last rappel and had to climb back up the rope. The last one, waterfall rappel was quite an interesting one... 5.5 hours up, 6.5 hours down, 0.5 hours at camp, 2.5 hours hike-out something like that. 15-hour Day 2. Matt's trip report: http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8027164