JCC

Trip: - Date: 2/10/2016 Trip Report: Climbed Old Chute. Warm weather elevated avi risk of a wet slide from moderate to considerable, so we had an alpine start of 1am with aim of a fast climb and to summit before sunrise. Old chute had a lot of hard snow/ice. Catwalk was fine. Started decent once sun came up. By the time we were back to Hogsback, lots of ice was falling from Old Chute. However, some climbers were just making the accent, despite it already after 7am and mid 40s! Down-climbed Mazama chute, but Old Chute would have been faster, due to a couple large ice steps in middle of Mazama Chute. Group after me set up repel down Mazama chute, which made their decent super-fast. One climber on summit did Pearly Gates, but said there were a few complex spots and wouldn’t have climbed PG if knew condition. Climbing partner brought AT skis, but conditions were subpar. Used icetool and axe to descend, but ice axe would be sufficient. Watch temps. If above freezing, get an alpine start and keep eye on NWAC website. Great sunrise, fun climb. Gear Notes: Crampons, helmet, ice tool, axe Approach Notes: Climber trail up hogs back to PG splits to left and hugs rocks/cliffs to Old Chute (watch for ice fall).