Thrilling time on Chair Peak! Perfect 18th birthday climb with a good friend. The early season conditions made the route fun and and committing especially being new to ice and mixed climbing.
Pitch one "the S shaped couloir" was great climbing, mostly mixed with neve in the middle.
The next section before the buttress steepens we climbed in two pitches. The first was well protected. The second a offered a good cam placement 10' feet from the anchor and for the next 50 meters didn't put a piece in. Not enough snow for pickets yet.
The crux pitch looked like great ice right up the middle but we opted left because we don't have screws. I slung an ice pillar close to the belay and similarly to the last pitch climbed with no pro until the tree belay. Always exhilarating.
The rest of the route was quite mellow. Night caught us on our descent but was worth it for the stars.
Overall a great climb!
Lucas Weyand
Matias Francis
Gear Notes:
Cams from .3 to 1 (used)
Wired Nuts (unused)
Two pins (unused)
All the anchors belay anchors are pre-exhisting.
Approach Notes:
Noticed a layer a surface hoar on top layer which could lead to some instability with the incoming weather.
[TR] Chair Peak - North East Buttress 11/28/2015
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
Trip: Chair Peak - North East Buttress
Date: 11/28/2015
Trip Report:
Thrilling time on Chair Peak! Perfect 18th birthday climb with a good friend. The early season conditions made the route fun and and committing especially being new to ice and mixed climbing.
Pitch one "the S shaped couloir" was great climbing, mostly mixed with neve in the middle.
The next section before the buttress steepens we climbed in two pitches. The first was well protected. The second a offered a good cam placement 10' feet from the anchor and for the next 50 meters didn't put a piece in. Not enough snow for pickets yet.
The crux pitch looked like great ice right up the middle but we opted left because we don't have screws. I slung an ice pillar close to the belay and similarly to the last pitch climbed with no pro until the tree belay. Always exhilarating.
The rest of the route was quite mellow. Night caught us on our descent but was worth it for the stars.
Overall a great climb!
Lucas Weyand
Matias Francis
Gear Notes:
Cams from .3 to 1 (used)
Wired Nuts (unused)
Two pins (unused)
All the anchors belay anchors are pre-exhisting.
Approach Notes:
Noticed a layer a surface hoar on top layer which could lead to some instability with the incoming weather.