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travisjburke

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Posts posted by travisjburke

  1. Trip: Patagonia - Aguja Guillaumet - Comesaña Fonrouge

     

    Date: 12/13/2016

     

    Trip Report:

    Thought you all might enjoy my piece on an epic (for me) climb in Patagonia. The Comesana-Fonrouge on Aguja Guillaumet was an amazing climb, just took me a bit to get around to writing it up!

     

    I've tried posting photos, but my access is denied?

     

    https://thebigwild.wordpress.com/2017/04/13/them-howlin-winds-or-pain-in-patagonia/

     

    -Travis

     

    Gear Notes:

    Standard rack with a couple doubles of small hands...

     

    Approach Notes:

    Rio Electrico for about 12km, then up, up, up...Camp at Piedra Negra, wake early, slog up the talus, scramble the slabs, then start the pitch...

    Rap the Amy--better?

  2. DPS--I was afraid you'd say something like that! Maybe we'll do a long siege on the complete NR...that's such a fun route, and last time, I was on a push with partner--no time to simply enjoy how great that route is...

    We're just planning on doing the Upper...definitely planning on at the least bivying at the Moraine...but we'll do Adams prior, and spend some days up Rainier--always hard to get the elev time here in PNW.

     

    Choada--Yeah, heavy packs! But we wanted to camp in Headlight as part of the fun!

  3. DPS -- I can only imagine!

    I did that on (I think) Bishop's Terrace down in the Valley--when my partner came up, his look said everything...my answer, "Because it's there?"

    We're working on getting her more comfortable in the mountains, moving quickly and confidently...Quick question--do you think something like the WR of Stuart would be a good "primer" climb for Exum?

  4. Trip: Ingalls Peak - First Alpine! - South Ridge

     

    Date: 10/2/2016

     

    Trip Report:

    I thought you all might enjoy a short trip report (mainly pictures) of my girlfriend's first alpine route! She's climbed a couple multi-pitches before in Zion, Smith, and Prime Rib over in Mazama, but this was her first mountain route...We're getting ready to do Exum Ridge on the Grand next year, so now its all about getting out there...

     

    So many memories of being so happy to be back in this parking lot!

    IMG_4595.JPG

     

    Hana, happy with larches and Stuart lurking in the snow...

    IMG_46031.JPG

     

    Me, pointing towards our route.

    IMG_46071.JPG

     

    Beautiful larches!

    IMG_4621.JPG

    IMG_4619.JPG

     

    Goats, always goats.

    IMG_46121.JPG

     

    Hana, at the base finally.

    IMG_4626.JPG

     

    Relax, and breathe...Look at the mountains!

    IMG_46282.JPG

     

    Climbing the last pitch!

    IMG_46312.JPG

     

    Summiting!

    IMG_4633.JPGIMG_4638.JPG

     

    Happy together!

    IMG_46401.JPG

     

    Rapping...

    IMG_46441.JPG

     

    Some more pretty shots, with a scenic (but cold) camp:

    IMG_46541.JPGIMG_4653.JPGIMG_46501.JPGIMG_4656.JPG

     

    Happy to be done (almost!)

    IMG_46572.JPG

     

    Obligatory parting goat shot

    IMG_4658.JPG

     

    This was a great time for us, and Ingalls is such a nice jaunt...First time camping in Headlight Basin--I've always wanted to camp there, but have mostly had to pass it by en route to Stuart...

     

    Gear Notes:

    Third time up the route...placed some pro somewhere?

     

    Approach Notes:

    Ingalls Pass, up to Headlight, up the slabs and talus couloir. 3 pitches up the South Ridge. Scramble to summit. Rap the route.

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