travisjburke

What happened? Here's the link to the write up... https://thebigwild.wordpress.com/2017/04/13/them-howlin-winds-or-pain-in-patagonia/ Maybe it's the site change?

Trip: Patagonia - Aguja Guillaumet - Comesaña Fonrouge Date: 12/13/2016 Trip Report: Thought you all might enjoy my piece on an epic (for me) climb in Patagonia. The Comesana-Fonrouge on Aguja Guillaumet was an amazing climb, just took me a bit to get around to writing it up! I've tried posting photos, but my access is denied? https://thebigwild.wordpress.com/2017/04/13/them-howlin-winds-or-pain-in-patagonia/ -Travis Gear Notes: Standard rack with a couple doubles of small hands... Approach Notes: Rio Electrico for about 12km, then up, up, up...Camp at Piedra Negra, wake early, slog up the talus, scramble the slabs, then start the pitch... Rap the Amy--better?

ldr66 -- Awesome! Yeah, what did you guys run? Hana felt great being unofficially "initiated" into the club of 'what'd you do?'--the climber beta/stoke club! Cascade Kid--so much! But Hana's a small person, so her bag looks huge! Most everything was for the overnight...took a small summit bag with us that we just left at the base of Ingalls...

DPS--I was afraid you'd say something like that! Maybe we'll do a long siege on the complete NR...that's such a fun route, and last time, I was on a push with partner--no time to simply enjoy how great that route is... We're just planning on doing the Upper...definitely planning on at the least bivying at the Moraine...but we'll do Adams prior, and spend some days up Rainier--always hard to get the elev time here in PNW. Choada--Yeah, heavy packs! But we wanted to camp in Headlight as part of the fun!

DPS -- I can only imagine! I did that on (I think) Bishop's Terrace down in the Valley--when my partner came up, his look said everything...my answer, "Because it's there?" We're working on getting her more comfortable in the mountains, moving quickly and confidently...Quick question--do you think something like the WR of Stuart would be a good "primer" climb for Exum?

Olympic -- It was gorgeous...timed perfect for larches, a little snow, a little sunshine...I think it's a great introductory climb...mellow, but with a good mountain-y feel... DPS--that sounds like a warning! hahaha! But if she didn't kill me after Prime Rib, I think it'll go!

Trip: Ingalls Peak - First Alpine! - South Ridge Date: 10/2/2016 Trip Report: I thought you all might enjoy a short trip report (mainly pictures) of my girlfriend's first alpine route! She's climbed a couple multi-pitches before in Zion, Smith, and Prime Rib over in Mazama, but this was her first mountain route...We're getting ready to do Exum Ridge on the Grand next year, so now its all about getting out there... So many memories of being so happy to be back in this parking lot! Hana, happy with larches and Stuart lurking in the snow... Me, pointing towards our route. Beautiful larches! Goats, always goats. Hana, at the base finally. Relax, and breathe...Look at the mountains! Climbing the last pitch! Summiting! Happy together! Rapping... Some more pretty shots, with a scenic (but cold) camp: Happy to be done (almost!) Obligatory parting goat shot This was a great time for us, and Ingalls is such a nice jaunt...First time camping in Headlight Basin--I've always wanted to camp there, but have mostly had to pass it by en route to Stuart... Gear Notes: Third time up the route...placed some pro somewhere? Approach Notes: Ingalls Pass, up to Headlight, up the slabs and talus couloir. 3 pitches up the South Ridge. Scramble to summit. Rap the route.