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brihuang

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Posts posted by brihuang

  1. To save money, I would use a alpine pack for backpacking trips and alpine climbing instead of a backpacking pack for both.

     

    I just started mountaineering last year, pretty much self-taught. To start, I READ a tons of forums/articles/trip reports and WATCHED a tons of youtube videos. I would say I'm fairly informed now, although probably spent 80 hours on what you can learn in a 8 hour class.

     

    For gear, realize mountaineering gear is expensive and be prepared to spend at least 1000, esp for overnight trips, where you have to get a 4 season tent, 20f bag, and warm pad. For gear, I would look at the RMI, IMG, or AAI websites and see what they bring or search other people's "gear lists" on backpackinglight or other forums. I'm going to do Hood in a couple weeks and plan to bring:

     

    Sun hat

    Glacier glasses

    Beanie

    Buff/balaclava

    Liner gloves

    Waterproof gloves

    Midweight baselayer top, long sleeve

    Soft shell jacket

    Hardshell jacket

    Midweight insulation jacket (in pack)

    Baselayer pants (in pack)

    Softshell pants

    Midweight socks

    Mountaineering boots

     

    Helmet

    Headlamp

    Crampons

    Iceaxe

     

    Compass/map

    Safety kit (whistle, first aid kit)

    Sunblock/Chapstick

     

    Food

    Water (500 ml nalgene in pocket, 2L platybottle in pack)

     

    Other tips are:

    1) Research the route obsessively, can you navigate it through a semi-whiteout?

    2) I personally NEVER climb under any questionable weather, sometimes even 10% chance of precipitation, as clouds=whiteout=getting lost. Always check forecast the night before and even AT the trailhead, as things can change fast and updated. Always be skeptical of mountain forecasts.

    3) Practice self-arrest obsessively. Learn different crampon techniques.

    4) Alpine start is 2AM. This is to avoid rock fall and the hot sun, and returning a good margin of time (6 hours) before dark.

    5) Beware of bulletproof ice because you cannot self-arrest on it. Many people have died sliding down hard ice.

    6) Pace yourself on the mountain. Never let your hear-rate rise too much and take breaks only every hour. You'll be much faster pacing yourself slowly and not stopping, as opposed to climbing too fast and taking many small rest breaks. Speed=safety.

     

    Info above is not comprehensive, so be sure to read up on other things. Good luck!

  2. Hi Jon,

     

    A few suggestions:

     

    1) Trip reports needs a "Date Posted" and "Date Climbed" category somewhere.

    2) It'll be cool if we can rate trip reports. If we just want to read an entertaining or inspiring story, then we can just organize by "highest rated" within our search results.

     

    My opinions and suggestions.

  3. Looking for partner or group of people interested in snowboarding Mount Adams and Mount Hood on June 20-30. I know it's a bit last minute, but the snow on Adams is melting fast! Ideally, I would find partners from Northern California (Bay Area, Sacramento, Redding, etc.) to carpool with.

     

    Friday

    12PM: Leave for Trout Lake

    11PM-12AM: Arrive Trout Lake

    Saturday

    5AM: Leave Trout Lake for Cold Springs Trailhead

    6AM: Begin Hike to Lunch Counter

    12PM: Camp at Lunch Counter, sleep

    Sunday

    8AM: Begin summit bid

    1PM: Summit. Begin awesome snowboard ride down

    2PM: Pack and ride down to trailhead

    4PM: Arrive in hotel in Hood River, sleep

    Monday

    730AM: Leave for Mount Hood

    9AM: Take ski lifts to Palmer Glacier

    12PM: Summit. Ride (or boot) down

    2PM: Leave Hood River for Sacramento/Davis

    12AM: Arrive home

     

    Splitboard: I don't have one and will be booting in crampons

    Transportation: We can take my car or your car (depending who has better mileage)

    Tent: We can share my TNF Assault 2 tent or we can sleep in separate tents

    Stove: I have a Jetboil Sol sufficient for 2

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