Chris Magness

Dig high camp in at 11,000' and you should be sheltered from the icefall. Also a good camp at 13,000' after the little bit of technical climbing. Realistically, the Kautz can be done in a single push if you're fit and acclimatized. If not, then it's a 2 day climb. Descending the route only makes sense to me if you're going to spend an extra night at high camp after summitting on a three or four day climb. Otherwise, going lighter, moving faster, and carrying over to the DC is a simple descent.

Any suggestions here? I'll need a dog sitter all of June and half of July, and a few good chunks of time through August and the end of this month. Will compensate well for good care.

Any further thoughts on techy routes (Liberty or Ptarmigan Ridge, or the North Ridge of Baker)? I have time available in late June/ early July, but will this be too late this year?

I'm sure there are a million threads about this already;I can't figure out how to search this forum.. Considering a trip in a few weeks as this route as one objective. I can find several trip accounts and a bunch of photos, buy not a good route description. The one on MP is terrible. I'd be flying solo, most likely a one day push. Also looking for steeper options in the area, this would be the warm-up. Comfortable ropeless up to NEI 5. Chris