bluto
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Posts posted by bluto
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Trip: Shasta - Casaval Ridge
Date: 11/13/2016
Trip Report:
My buddy Kyle and I climbed Shasta this past weekend. We hiked in Saturday morning from bunny flat, camped at Helen lake, climbed the upper Casaval ridge, and descended avalanche gulch.
The conditions were great, though a bit windy on the ridge and upper mountain. Fresh snow was no more than a few inches deep in pockets with very solid styrofoam underneath. The catwalk (I think) was pretty scary with rime sticking out over the path, so we pitched it out with with a single 40m traverse. The rest of the climb was uneventful, though a bit more wandering than we expected. I definitely underestimated the mountain a bit, it's not little!
Also, glissading conditions were fantastic, I think we had almost as much fun as the skiers!
Gear Notes:
Used:
-Ice axe (Kyle had a second tool, that was smart)
-40m rope
-2 pickets
Approach Notes:
Snow is spotty on the trail until near the alpine lodge.
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Yep, the bergschrund was pretty wide open at that point. You could probably end run it if you were set on the pearly gates, but the old chute was the path of least resistance
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Good mountaineering boots with quite a bit of life left in them. I also have some other stuff to sell (daypack, messenger bag, jacket, vest): http://corvallis.craigslist.org/spo/5648405232.html.
I'd also be willing to negotiate a trade of any/all items for a small climbing pack, something in the 20-30l range (ideally looking for a Wild Things Guide).
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Took some friends up sunday. There was a lot of fresh snow. Enough that self arresting wasn't even necessary (my buddy accidentally tested this)! The old chute and mazama chute were both a bit icy, but still as easy as I've ever seen them.
Anyway, pictures...
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Pucker, I think straight up/right in 1d would spit you out at the bottom of the broad snow slope below my red line maybe 100 feet or so. I think the left variation in 1d would get you to the start of my red line (assuming that goes through).
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I was actually further right, 1e in the Oregon High description. I didn't get a great look at the gully you're describing (1d), but the commonly referred to left variation (1c) seemed to go with a solid and pretty long vertical ice step just past the entrance.
Just as an fyi for those interested in these routes. I think anything right of 1c will put you on the ridge below the gendarme and require you to climb through the cliffs I described. The cliffs were definitely the crux of the route with some decent exposure and narrow snow/ice sections (see last picture).
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Trip: Mt Hood - Devils Kitchen - Right Variation
Date: 6/12/2016
Trip Report:
Some other plans got cancelled this past weekend. So for a last minute adventure, I figured Hood was a pretty doable objective since I had already climbed the south side twice. Last minute also meant that I wasn't able to find a partner, so this would be my first solo climb as well.
I initially planned to take the left variation through DKH, but I chickened out and opted for the more mellow right variation. The gully was mostly 50+ degree snow and ice with two AI2 "steps." I was surprised by how much solid ice there was in the gully which helped make this section go quickly and smoothly.
I haven't seen many reports on this route, so I didn't realize that after topping out on the ridge I would have another obstacle to overcome. There's some exposed climbing and traversing through some cliffs that overlook the wyeast face and newton-clark glacier. This section really got my nerves going and I forgot to take pictures until after I got back to crater rock. Luckily the conditions were solid so I could focus on not freaking out. After the traversing it was relatively easy climbing up a gully to the summit ridge.
I had been contemplating soloing a technical route since the winter started and never got the nerve, so I'm glad the last minute cancelled plans and good weather forced my hand. It was quite liberating to climb alone at my own pace and it made my climbing more focused and cerebral.
Back at the car, this raven kept me company while I ate breakfast and celebrated with a beer. It may have just been interested in my burrito though
Gear Notes:
Brought 2 ice screws and 1 picket but didn't place anything
2 poles to crater rock
2 tools to the top
Approach Notes:
Left Timberline at 1am
Crater Rock at 4
Summit at 5:30
Back to car by 8
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Almost new condition (used once in the snow). Selling cause they're a bit too small for me.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pwf09ICiFGMloFiUO0CRd51OQL-iRqhnsw
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LTiDqoKZ433-q9BQl6eguMk6kfFBxIj62w
Asking $250obo plus shipping. I'd also be willing to trade if you've got a comparable boot around size 11.
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I was at Jeff Park this past weekend camping. I was initially planning to go play on the glacier a bit, but decided to just swim in scout lake after seeing it's state. Here's a shot of Jeff Park glacier for your viewing pleasure.
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Price drop to $250.
C'mon! These are brand new, unused boots!
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Powderhoud,
How was the skiing over there on the spur? Is it corning up nicely? Considering a trip around to the darkside on sunday.
-Bluto
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I ran into a guy at the hogsback on sunday (3/1) who had attempted the reid glacier headwall. He turned back due to some deep snow apparently. My guess is it'd be good by now with the weather this week.
-Bluto
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I have a brand new pair of LaSportiva Sideral AT boots. They're mondo 27.5 and still in the box! I have worn them around my house and decided they're too narrow for my foot, so someone gets a great deal.
Asking $300 obo. I'm in Corvallis.
-Bluto
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I took a rock climbing friend up Hood yesterday (3/1) for his first mountain climb.
After hearing some concerns from another pair about wind slab above the hogsback, we decided to try for the pearly gates with some pro. The schrund had a nice bridge. He belayed me up to the entrance to the gates, but the snow turned out to be totally stable. We solo'd through the gates which had a short "ice step" and then were home free to the summit. We came down the old chute. Conditions were great, and we saw a number of parties coming up the old chute and lots of skiers on the palmer as we were heading down.
gear notes:
2 pickets (not necessary), 40M rope, an axe and 2nd tool each
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You should be able to take the Tilly Jane trail from Cooper Spur road. With the low snow year I bet you can drive right to the gate, haven't been there since early december though. It's probably somewhere between 2.5-3 miles to the Tilly Jane A frame, another mile to the rock hut at the bottom of the spur, then it gets steep not too long after that. It would be a long day to summit, but the hut is not a bad bivy.
Cooper spur can be a risky endeavor in the winter though due to avalanche risk and the unforgiving fall line.
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Since the discussion about snow conditions is being had, I thought I'd share some beta from the slopes....
I was on Cooper's Spur 11/15 and South side 11/16, it was still quite cold but sunny and calm. With the high pressure, calm air, and sun that came through that weekend following the storm, things were nice and stable (sun after a storm tends to help bond the new layers to the old). Saturday things were a bit windblown and icy on the spur, but definitely good climbing if you had two axes. We skinned to about tie-in rock before switching to crampons for a bit, but turned around below the chimney as my buddies legs were going. Riding down was good below tie-in rock, just had to look out for rocks still peeking through the snow.
Sunday it warmed up some more. We drove around to Timberline and skinned up to crater rock, I ran up to the hogsback to have a looksy into the crater bowl. With the sun and warming weather saturday and sunday things softened up for sure. The crater was definitely in prime condition by the end of the day, great for climbing (though you probably want two axes/tools still) and good for skiing down as long as you avoid those pesky rocks still peeking out on the lower slopes.
It's obviously changed a lot since 11/16 with all that snow that's been coming down, but things were nicely bonded 1.5 weeks ago.
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Iowa,
I'm around this weekend and would love to climb Jefferson if the weather clears. I may also head to the enchantments, so lemme know soon.
PM sent.
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Anyone been on the mazama glacier this recently?
Hardshell and puffy jackets, softshell pants, etc
in The Yard Sale
Posted
See more here: http://corvallis.craigslist.org/spo/5955651523.html
Waterproof ski jacket (size XL)- Mountain Hardwear Snowpocalypse $100
-Dry Q elite waterproof/breathable jacket with snowskirt.
Down Jacket (size Lg)- Sierra Designs Gnar Lite $50
-Lightweight puffy jacket with hydrophobic down. There's a small tear thats been patched on the shoulder (see picture).
Synthetic insulated jacket (size Lg)- Mountain Hardwear $30
-It was the liner for a 3-in-1 jacket.
Softshell pants (size XXL)- Mountain Hardwear $30