jrc

I got to use the 30:30 during the Bozeman Ice fest last year and thought it was pretty good when compared to all of the above. It's definitely a solid 40L (NOT the cilo gear "40L" but I bet it's as big as the Speed 40). I have big shoulders and traps and I got one with the long shoulder straps. Shoulder straps were comfortable. Unfortunately, the webbing waist belt left a little to be desired. I'm all about webbing waist belts, however, the 30:30 will sag quite significantly so the bottom of the pack feels like it's down below your ... backside. If I were to buy the pack, I would ask for a stiff hip belt from one of the larger packs. Cilo Gear packs are a little rough around the edges...It's part of their charm. The current two packs I own are the old style mountain hardwear summitrocket 40 with the roll top closure (it's great but dying quickly and you better pack it right if you dont use the bivy pad...which I never use) and the crux ak 57x (now this is an awesome pack but the torso is a bit short for the size, I think. I measure a 19" back and have the size 2).

Thanks! I'm likely to be hacking with the hackers...

How are things doing? Are things going to come crashing down should one try to climb in Hyalite this coming holiday weekend?

Other standout products to consider: Crux ak47x. Hmg ice pack.

with a little bit of internet searching you can quickly find that several big names (besides Dane) are using the two piece system (Ueli S., Colin H. etc). The inner piece can become part of the action layer during cold sections of climbing. I've found that I like a 2 piece system. A 60 - 80g synthetic piece and then a bigger belay jacket to go over that when it's super cold. Last year in the St Elias in April and the year previous in the eastern alaska range in April I used a 60g primaloft one piece (peak performance hydrogen) and a 160g primaloft one piece (patagonia DAS parka old style). I've found that I use the 60 - 80g piece a ton as my 3 season belay jacket and I use my heavier puffy a bit as a winter belay jacket in coastal climates. Use them together in colder climates. Wild Things Belay jacket is super bomber and super heavy. A top contender in my mind is the mountain equipment Citadel. Arcteryx dually with the hood is also a top tier product. Dont be too afraid of down used correctly and in the correct places. For the lighter weight piece, I just picked up a nuclei hoody to replace the hydrogen and I. LOVE. IT.

^^^ Yeah, looks to me (without trying any of the new boots yet) like the answer to the question of Batura or Trango is Nepal Cube! I really really love by Nepal Extremes for technical routes. Not the best to walk in but a better climber than the Trango's (my only real experience being with the "S" version which is even less supportive) IMO due to the extra support.

I own and use all: R1 Hoody + Houdini (sub Rab Cirrus or Arc Squamish for better fit) is the winner for lightweight alpine climbing. mostly because the R1 hoody rocks but is too hot most of the time so you end up wearing the windshirt with a lighter weight base layer. I consider the windshirt a wear item you plan to replace. Lack of stretch has yet to bother me. I honestly dont think a houdini with good dwr is going to be THAT much more water resistant than arcteryx soft shell...maybe I'm totally crazy there...but it'll definitely dry faster! Gamma MX is great for ice cragging and downhill skiing as it is very comfortable and very warm. The sheer number of pockets indicates it's not for real alpine use. Gamma MX is NOT POWER SHIELD PRO. Pata Knifeblade is and is lighter weight. Gamma MX old version was regular power shield (more air permeable, less water resistant than pro) and new version is proprietary stretch softshell without membrane like powershield (anything). It will likely breath more, dry faster, be more stretchy and generally just better (I haven't used it but I always prefer a softshell without a membrane if possible).

I guess they're lined and stupidly expensive but I've been thinking of replacing my techno's with the TC pro. They seemed like a nice shoe and didn't kill my toes at the demo day. stiffer than the mythos which I think are much less stiff than the technos. The technos have way more feel than my 5.10 newtons...I also thought the la sportiva nago was rather comparable with a shape that was friendly on my feet and a build that was reasonable for long trad routes.

Rab Vapour Rise Trail Smock. Check it out in my Yard Sale thread! :-)

Wait for the patagonia knifeblade to come out and then get it on sale/outlet sale/whatever. Or get the Rab neoshell pant...