brionifitch
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Posts posted by brionifitch
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Any updates on the glacier conditions at Suh-LEE-see (just found out how to say it
)? Planning on climbing this next Monday....
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Trip: Snow Creek Wall - Outer Space
Date: 5/20/2016
Trip Report:
This looks to be interesting...
Left Vancouver 0720 after 12hr work day, stoked to get out climbing in the morning! Arrived to the Leavenworth area a little before midnight, parking on a quiet forest road for a short night of sleep under the stars. I awoke at 0500, Dan was still snoozing (had ingested something toxic the day before and had been throwing up and generally feeling like crap). By the time we got to the Snow Lake TH it was nearing 0715.
AFter racking up with oodles of kit, we hit the trail at 0730 with high anticipation of the climb ahead.
Arrived at the base of the wall around 0900. There was one party setting up for Outer Space already. We were unsure of their climbing speed, but after seeing them roping up and placing pro for the original start scramble we decided to quickly rack up and free solo to two tree ledge.
The one tenous part on the traverse was a downclimb to an easier path instead of crossing directly across vertical granite.
Set a quick anchor and Dan started out on P3 aiming for the traverse crux. The following party caught up and we watched Dan work slowly through the traverse. I couldn't help but silently urge him to pick up the pace as we now were making the other pair wait. Awkward! It wasn't until I worked through the climb myself did I realize why it took so long (that section is tough!).
About to enter the absolutely other-worldly environment on P4. The features just blew me away! Such fun climbing on that pitch no matter the long run outs, it was great.
Dan then set out to enter the dream-world of P5, what a beautiful crack! All the hype about Outer Space became true once I climbed this pitch.
I just had to stop mid pitch at a good rest and capture the perfection I was amidst.
After resting and enjoying Library Ledge for a bit I headed out to finish the climb. Using a 70m, the decision was made to climb the full length instead of pitching out.
The wild features continued on this pitch, especially the "roof" bulge that made me literally LOL.
Belay anchor was set up off a huge boulder that was approximately 69.5 meters from Library Ledge (rope stretcher!), Dan's smiling face came over the crest, and we celebrated the day before starting the walk off.
Back to the base of the wall at 1445. We could see the party we had passed free-soloing had just started up P6 so we were pleased to have made that decision. Realized we just did a 7 pitch climb in 4 pitches. Definitely recommend it as an alternative to the standard route. All in all, a great climb and a great experience!
Gear Notes:
Full rack, doubles in cams, (think we had triples in size 1 and used em up easily on P5/6). Save an orange metolius/equiv (or two) for the belay anchor on the top boulder if linking P6-7 and using a 70m.
Approach Notes:
Hour and a half up and hour down. Don't forget to factor in the walk off to the base of the wall, would rather not get caught in the dark there.
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Is the northwest forest pass required to park on 2060? Couldn't really find any clear info...
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What did I get myself into? Arggg
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So the Ozone trail (specifically east end) has been kinda eroding down the hillside and it's been on my mind this winter. I got a hold of some cheap and free materials for some improvements so I dropped it off today off the east trail near the switchback. Planning on getting back there this next week to fix up the broken down section between the switch back and the mordor section, plus maybe do some steps/belay platforms thru the slippery rock (belay for no nut's/dad's nuts cause right now it sucks). Let me know if you want to help call/text Brian 360-907-9810.
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Well shucks, I called the dept and he says yeah the tree might be there but you can't use power tools as a volunteer. Well shoot! how you supposed to get er done? Ah well...
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Lewis and Clark State Park..? kinda makes you think its a park
maybe I'll just check it out and if it's there I'll take care of it -
I know it's been awhile but I climbed here on a beautiful New year's eve and noticed a lot of downed trees (especially a maple right across the trail 50ft in). Just wondering if this is still the case. I have a chainsaw and was thinking I could do some maintenance (if the parks dept would approve) and end up with firewood to boot...
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I did make it out Wednesday, rock was completely dry (don't know why I was worried about the rain). We did Jill's Thrill and I clipped those two fixed pins thinking 'free pro!'. My rudimentary test found them solid so I trusted, but I can't deny that there have been many stories of 'solid' pins blowing too so who's to say... I think if that is what was protecting a crux it would be different.
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Would love some crispy bacon tomorrow... has this thunderstorm hit with any intensity?
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Thanks that was exactly the info I was looking for! Now I just have to choose a couple new ropes...
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I had a fire in my garage last weekend, which is where I had my climbing gear stowed... My ropes and webbing were hanging the wall near the source of the fire and visually, they all look fine, but the insurance adjustor told me he didn't think they would be safe to use again. There was a helmet about a foot closer to the fire and it melted partially, but like I said I didn't see any sheath melting on the ropes. Would there be any issue with smoke damage or unseen damage from heat do you think? Also I had some biners hanging from some slings in the rafters and the slings were completely toasted but the biners were just blackened from smoke. With that amount of heat applied would there be any issue with those? Couldn't really find anything by searching google. I mean I wouldn't really mind a couple new ropes I suppose...
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Yup that was it for sure. Is there another anchor lower down in the choss pile? I looked and looked and finally just downclimbed. Did see some older hangers on a route a bit to the left...
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Figured that about the wind... it is the gorge none the less. Rapped off the hikers trail on the sw face. Nice looking climbing the top two pitches. Bottom was mostly sketchy choss, was using a 60 and stranded myself 20 ft off the deck on a moss ledge. Not sure what the routes are there, it's kinda been under the radar lately I suppose?
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Just exploring a bit via rap yesterday and pretty much got blown off the dang cliff! The wind forecast said 12mph with gusts to 15 or something, more like 30 with gusts of 50! anybody know of a good source for gorge wind forecasts?
Slesse Conditions 2018
in British Columbia/Canada
Posted
Dang. I trusted the Google... Thanks for the tip