Blacklab

Been there done that in 2016. 3 days to exit 4.5 miles out middle and s cascade valleys. If no one can tell me the downed trees in Downey are not creating an extensive mess...I am probably out for this season, given the limited time window.

All, Good points. Thank you. That was my suspicion about the normal exit and weather. In terms of extension, I've always been interested in heading S from gunsight along the ridge staying to the west of Bannock then picking up the trail at canyon lake. In the scenario that exiting out suiattle was impractical, I was thinking briefly about Holden village near stehekin. Would like to do this stretch in August first. Guessing skis would be a more practical option on the normal traverse this June. Thanks!

I hear Downey Creek and the Suiattle river road are closed. We were considering attempting the traverse in late June. With the current snowpack, would an exit East over Dome to Kaiwah pass then down past Bannock to the East be doable? I hear you guys are near 150% snow right now. Wondering where we will be with Avy conditions below 9000ft in 3 weeks. I am imagining this would take 7 days in total, 2 days once past dome. I am on the east coast, for reference. Thanks, Justin

Will have to go back with a bit more cascades experience. It was 2nd time to the cascades (no problem with the snow, but the crumbling rock is a bit new to me in the alpine). We had a mix of experience levels in our group and others were obviously not comfortable. It would have been a challenge for our group and given the circumstances, it seemed to be the right call. Thanks for the followup and perspective.

Trip: Glacier Peak Wilderness - Ptarmigan Traverse North to South Date: 8/10/2016 Trip Report: Started on 8/3 after the low pressure system moved through. Travel across mixup arm and cache glacier was straightforward with the exception of a steep gully that was followed immediately by a steep scree hillside. Placed a picket before the scree and headed out onto the scree... turned out it was mud and was giving way. Super sketchy. Main point: Fairly sizeable moat (6-7 feet away from wall) at red ledges and no snow up to the ledge or in the gully was problematic for my group to continue. Despite the beautiful weather we decided to descend. Looked like one other person before us turned back, their tracks never made it to the scramble to access the ledge. A third party behind us decided to turn back the same day. Surprised for a normal snow year. Looked like the wall got really hot a few days this year and baked the snow away from it. Snow was surprisingly covering the slope much further to the north relative to the lack of snow on the tongue approach to the ledge... There was no snow in the gully to the right, and the moat there was much more pronounced with a huge sickle of a fin sticking up about 15 feet away from the wall.

Nice work! Glad it was passable for you guys. We made an attempt on 8/3 - 8/4 and got as far as red ledges. Snow was back from the wall about 6-7 feet with a sharp overhangning fin and moat. Further there was no snow at all in the gully further along the ledge. Even with a normal snow year, I wonder if August is now out for this route with climate change?!

Does a single 50 meter rope get me to the ground on the descent for the SW Routes (5.6) on both spires?

We potentially are planning an ascent of Rainer on 8/7-8/9. I say potential because we are coming of the ptarmigan traverse in the day or two before we could attempt Rainier. So of course it will depend on weather, but it may also depend on how we feel. With our 4 months of training following the new House/Johnston book, and with 8/6 more a less being a rest day, I am thinking that 8/7 should be good to go. Anyway two of us are sticking around for a few days after the traverse and are considering Rainier among other objectives. We could certainly accommodate 1-2 more people on a rope. I'd suggest calling me if your interested since we will be traveling as of 7/30. I will catch a PM on this site until 7/29. Justin 716-361-0784

Great suggestion on the aquarmira; though if I were concerned about nuclear fallout the iodine would be a better choice... My taste buds will thank you and I will be better hydrated for it. Regarding fuel 4 L is the estimate for three people per day. And not 4 every day, but that's just being conservative. Thanks for the thoughts!

I thought the quote was "go west young man" . . . which is what we are doing! Sounds good. If I were to take any of those, the second tool and a couple screws seems the most useful, but I don't know the conditions thoroughly right now.

I am planning some climbing in the cascades in two weeks. I am finalizing on gear and had a few questions. Any input would be appreciated! We are planning a ptarmigan traverse from north to south and hope to do one camp on dome glacier (conditions permitting) with the possibility of the first night being between kool-aid and spider-formidable col. Pack weights are currently about 45 lbs for 6 days with the shovel and 8 wands but without the weather radio, 2nd ice tool, and ice screws. 1) 8 Wands for marking out camp on the dome glacier excessive? I am thinking these can be left out since we are planning a one-way trip. Or should I move on up toward the ridge and attempt to stake out on the rocks/sandy ledges? (Fairly long 3 person tent) 2) Snow shovel necessary this late in the season (1 per party of three)? I can't think of any reason for it (other than getting dumped on in Aug). We didn't use it on the Sulfphide or in Boston Basin in Aug of 2013. 3) Thinking about leaving the weather radio behind and leaving the forecasting to the intial report, the clouds, and barometer (will be out for about 6 days) (it is a HAM tri-band transmitter as well, but we will have a spot device on us). Might help planning ascents, torn on this one. 4) We will probably carry 2nd tools (maybe only 1 or 2), if considering dropping onto to Chickamin and exiting to canyon lake. This adds about 1 lb per tool. Thinking this might be useful to deal with the southern portion and any moats getting on and off nearby peaks. Thoughts on this? 5) Given your conditions this year, I am guessing ice screws are out for the first week of August, but carrying 1 or 2 is not a problem. Possible use (protecting 5am descents out of spider-formidable col to the south and off dome high camp onto the chicakmin glacier)?? 6) Any of you sleep on glacier snow with just one z-rest pad? I am considering leaving the inflatable out. No problem sleeping on hard surfaces here (do this often for summer trips). In the winter in the northeast I have gotten away with the old guide-rest pads ~1 inch thick and more recently down-filled Expeds. I tend to sleep warm. Based on Rainier recreational forecast, night time temps might get to low thirties at 8000 ft. I am guessing this comes down to experience and personal preference. For one night out, I could probably pull the extra closed cell foam backpad out of my pack and drop the pack down under my legs....might be a moot question. 7) Fuel. I am expecting to find lots of glacial runoff for water so I am not expecting on melting. However, I think we have one night and morning of melting on the dome glacier, with the possibility of a second night melting snow if we bivy in spider-formidable col the first night. We are carrying an MSR reactor and I am assuming we are boiling 4 liters of water a day for 6 days. Iodine for the rest. Does three 8-oz canisters seem sufficient at that elevation or should I plan for more melting snow with the Reactor? Thanks! Justin

Is anyone willing to part with/ sell their Alpinist Magazine Issues # 1, 2, 7, and/or 18? Justin