zwinters

This is very exciting news! Here's a shortcut to the good stuff. Go to 7.2 CLIMBING. http://www.accessfund.org/atf/cf/%7B1f5726d5-6646-4050-aa6e-c275df6ca8e3%7D/DIRECTOR'S%20ORDER%2041%20SIGNED%205.13.13.PDF A few take-home points: "It is recognized that the use of removable anchor may reduce, but does not in every case eliminate the need for fixed anchors." "Fixed anchors or fixed equipment should be rare in wilderness. Authorization will be required for the placement of new fixed anchors or fixed equipment." "'Clean climbing' techniques should be the norm in wilderness." "The use of motorized equipment (e.g. power drills) is prohibited by the Wilderness Act and and NPS regulations." So it's definitely not a sport climbing free-for-all, but I think minimal and last resort development of this kind is a good thing. But the Access Fund's claim that, "Fixed anchors...can be strategically placed to minimize climbing impacts to...wildlife in wilderness areas" still has me stumped. How does building an anchor with chocks impact wildlife? Impacts to soils and vegetation makes sense, but last I checked belaying off of a goat or pika was not a common practice. But all in all, very exciting progress!

Sending in Indian Creek in style, dinosaur style.

Enjoying deep early season turns, a Cascade specialty

Zion Canyon from above Moonlight Buttress

Sore hands begging for a rest day in Indian Creek

Torres del Paine lit up under a full moon

Trip: Forbidden Peak - W Ridge Date: 7/12/2012 Trip Report: Because this is such a frequented route I'll spare you any of the redundant route information (there's an abundance of route beta on the web and elsewhere), and I'll just jump to the route conditions. Road: Perfect Trail: The first stream crossing gets your attention a little. Not bad though, just a ~5 foot jump. Boston Basin: Snow down to tree line. Water available throughout. W Ridge Couloir: Man eating hole on climber's right. Go climbers left of the large rock below the couloir. Snow was soft corn and did not require protection, though it is exposed to the hole below. Snow reaches the top, no loose rock couloir travel necessary. W Ridge: Perfect condition, snow free, and easy climbing. Approach shoes were sufficient for us, no need for rock shoes. 5.6 is generous. Felt more like 5.2 even on the crest the whole route. 6-8 pitches if you pitch it out. Certainly not necessary and would recommend a running belay on all (or all but one) pitch depending on your comfort level. Descent: I recommend down climbing the ridge rather than rappelling, even though rap stations are abundant. From ridge: 30m rap to snow. <60m rap from top of snow to far (east) side of dog-leg in couloir. <60m rap to slings at skiers left (east) above the large hole. 60m rap (not fall line, careful of pendulums) to bottom of couloir and easy climbing. Entire couloir can be down climbed depending on snow and comfort. Gear Notes: Boots, approach shoes, axe, crampons. Nuts, slings, and a few medium cams. Picket(s) if you care to protect the couloir (likely not necessary). Approach Notes: First snow to stash your beer is the first stream crossing.