bd2510
-
Posts
20 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by bd2510
-
-
http://www.kgw.com/news/Search-postponed-for-overdue-Mt-Hood-climber-212692041.html
59 y.o. training for Ama Dablam. Left tline to climb Leuthold last Saturday.
-
Thanks for the picture! We saw your lights down in the creek at about 3AM. It looked like three people and then we saw you descending the west rib later in the morning.
-
Trip: Mt Jefferson - Jefferon Park Glacier via Woodpecker Ridge Approac
Date: 6/21/2013
Trip Report:
Wojtek and I climbed Jefferson via the KER on Woodpecker ridge. We found conditions to be quite good except for some bad postholing through suncrust lower down. Snow and ice coverage is quite low, and there is not much snow below treeline. Mostly mixed climbing with a little ice on the summit pinnacle.
For a full writeup see my blog: http://nobolts.blogspot.com/2013/06/6212013-mt-jefferson-via-woodpecker.html
Gear Notes:
3 pickets, 4 screws, nuts>BD#7, #10 hex, #1, #2, slings for horns, 1 60m light dry rope, crampons, 2 axes
Approach Notes:
leather rigid soled boots
-
Anastasia prettymuch summed it up, but if you are extra curious, I wrote a brief description here: http://nobolts.blogspot.com/2013/06/6152013-prusik-peak.html
-
saturday night, sunday morning. probably leave the car at 9pm.
-
I'd like to climb Jefferson Park this weekend via woodpecker ridge. The route is long technical, and involves significant downclimbing. Ice and rock experience is a must. see the route here: http://www.nobolts.blogspot.com/2012/06/mt-jefferson-attempt-via-woodpecker.html
have plenty of gear, transportation. PM me if interested
-
I remember doing Helens on a hot day and it was long enough. Impressive after doing Hood earlier. I've done the drive as well in three days and climbing Hood after was not appealing. Nice work and welcome to the Best Coast!
-
Nice work. wish I was there.
-
No we didn't. I'm guessing you left/lost one there? There weren't even any tracks at all past the CS shelter. All windblown.
-
Trip: Mt. Hood - North Face Right Gully (attempt)
Date: 1/14/2013
Trip Report:
Yocum Ridge and I attempted the NF but were turned back by the wind. We did make it above the 'schrund and were able to sample. route conditions.
see the full trip report here.
http://nobolts.blogspot.com/2013/01/mt-hood-north-face-right-gully-attempt.html
Gear Notes:
screws and pickets
2 tools
warm clothes
Approach Notes:
snowshoes
-
I'd really like to get on this route this winter if conditions are there. Ill be in the area from dec. 15 to jan 25th. PM if interested.
Thanks
-
Regardless of what you all have said... I'm an engineer at Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, and the answer is that the decrease in for has to do with impulse, or forceXtime. When climbing companies rate equipment in terms of kN, this is a force. This force is the maximum allowable force on the piece. If, for example the rating is for 6kn, and the piece holds for 1 second, the resulting change in momentum is 6kN sec, which can be translated to a change in momentum. To summarize, no matter what the piece is rated for, it matters how long it holds. A 12kN piece that holds for 50% the time of a 6kN piece changes the force on the other pieces exactly the same amount. More pro is better in general, and everything takes energy out of the system, even the friction of a cordelette over a biner attached to a weak piece.
Also, for the mathematicians, the change in momentum is equal to the integral of the force in terms of time, and since momentum is mass times velocity, the change in velocity is the integral of Fdv/m.
-
Easy walking the whole way up if frozen. The shrund is getting pretty big and there was some wind loading in the pearly gates last weekend. West crater rim was in prime skiing shape last weekend, a little powder over ice, but that probably melted off and i would bet its very slick now. Pickets held great in underlying snow.
-
Trip: Mt. Jefferson 6/10/12 - Jefferson Park KER via Woodpecker Ridge
Date: 6/10/2012
Trip Report:
Yocum Ridge and I made an attempt on Jefferson recently in difficult conditions. I wrote it up on my blog here: http://www.nobolts.blogspot.com/2012/06/mt-jefferson-attempt-via-woodpecker.html
We climbed most of the KER to the North Ridge junction, but had to bail due to tired party members. 22 hours round trip. This was attempt 4 on Jefferson, but each time something's prevented climbing it. Lots of photos and a full report on the blog. Also look for Yocum Ridge's TR soon.
Gear Notes:
3 pickets, 5 screws, many slings, set of nuts, screamers, a few pins.
Approach Notes:
Woodpecker Ridge trailhead (1 mile walk up snow covered road). Endless post holing both directions.
-
Anyone interested? Have car, so extra gear, rope, etc. Incredible route. Willing to do in single push as well. PM if interested.
-
Looking for a partner to climb trad or sport 5.8-5.10+ in Portland area. Maybe ozone or broughton bluffs. Have a car and a full rack, rope, extra harnesses etc. PM me if interested.
-
As for the Devil's Kitchen headwall, I climbed that no problem with my 57 year old dad. An yes it's steep, but no it's not that hard. A very interesting route, although very short.
-
I don't think the original posts by that user were intended to get attention, but to amuse him and the others involved. I do think, however that the increased participation resulting from such a post is advantageous in the long run to this site. Repeated offenses should be punished but one post like this is not harmful. However, it could be moved to spray or some category so that it does not interfere with serious posts.
(Green jacket on nobolts.blogspot.com)
[TR] Mount Hood - Wy'East 1/17/2014
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
I think they just cranked the clarity (midtone sharpness and contrast) at the expense of noise, maybe did some tone adjustments as well. Lightroom is great software for doing this... That makes three ascents of that route that day, great conditions