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sapphari

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Posts posted by sapphari

  1. Thanks for the additional beta, Yocum.

     

    DPS - the guiding company is a US-based international guiding company. The actual guide has multiple first ascents in the Cascades to his name, as well as in the Waddingtons, Patagonia and Alaska. Of course, he is also extensively certified. I would be happy to share more specific details to those who are interested in joining me this June. ;)

     

    In regard to rock and icefall - yes this is a potential hazard. A cold snap (more likely in June than later in the season) would drastically reduce these hazards. I agree that this route should be less technical in June than it would be later in the season when the glacier is more broken up.

     

    In regard to flexibility - As with any serious climb, safety and respect of the mountain (and particular route) are of upmost importance. As such, the guide and I are not locked into this particular route on those particular days. While it'd be great if everything if everything works out, if conditions are not favorable, we will climb elsewhere.

     

    All this chitter-chatter is getting me excited!

     

     

  2. Hello -

     

    I'm looking for a partner to join a guide and myself on an attempt of Shuksan's Price Glacier. Alpine Select calls this famous route 'perhaps the most classic ice face in the Cascades' and 'a wonderful adventure on a big face'. It is also one of the 50 Classic Climbs of N. America. I'm hoping our decent route will be via the White Salmon Glacier. The route involves steep ice, potentially some 5th class rock and two bivies on the mountain. Route finding on the Price Glacier can be very challenging as seracs and burgschrunds can prove significant objective hazard, well justifying a guide.

     

    This 3-day climb is scheduled for June 19th-21st, when the route is expected to be in it's best shape. Guiding costs are $800 and include food on the mountain.

     

    Below are some teasers. Please PM me if you are interested in more info.

     

    Happy climbing,

    Josh

     

    A couple of great trip reports:

    http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=974065

    http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=901411

     

    Good collection of low-res photos:

    http://www.pbase.com/nolock/shuksan&page=1

     

    Price Glacier route. This was taken in August; in June it will be less broken up:

    106239003_large_6cbf26.jpg

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