aklove

Dammit I let myself get dragged into this. One thing is for certain. The park service has a proposed management plan to not manage permanent anchors. As much as I hate bureaucracy, I do believe those with the power drills had better find a way to manage this or the climbing community is going to be served a big disservice. It use to be up here in Anchorage that us climbers had the wisdom to know what to bolt and what not to bolt. Apparently this has escaped some of us. For what it's worth, I personally think the upper pivot bolts and sunshine bolts are just lame. Neither area had a history of bolts, besides anchors... I think with the combined efforts of the local route developers and outdoor businesses we can form a group that manages the responsibilities of bolt placements. I do believe this is what the park service will expect of us if there is to be a change, and I believe the park service is considering a change, given all the feedback. I know there's great examples of stewardship in the lower 48 to follow... We can sort out the details of the hardest technical route in the park on the sharp end... It's win win... I've got to hear it from the horses mouth about free-soloing 32 and beautiful. I can see rope soloing, but free-soloing that thing - shudder... I really hope this bolt shit ends in some kind of management rather than blatant restriction. Kind of sad to see it came to this after all these years, dammit. I've had some really great times with some really great people putting up some really somewhat great routes. cheers

Please send a photo Does it have a bolt at the start? The last I knew it hadn't been finished. And Josh soloed it? Actually I'll continue this off thread, far more important than some bolts in highway choss, lol. cheers

Please describe exactly where 32 and beautiful is. I think you have the wrong route. cheers

"Yeah, I do think it is the most difficult line in the park. Go repeat it and find out for yourself. What do you think the hardest one is?" Even more difficult than your flailing attempts on 32 and beautiful? That one was the hardest for awhile, lol. If you ain't leaving things behind then you ain't climbing hard enough. I know where Fundamentalist Cut is and I can't believe you're serious. Where were you when we bombed Bruce for his drilled pockets? Dear god... cheers

"There's no fixed gear on Nantina either, just the hardest line in the park." LMFAO, do you really believe that!? "There is no fixed gear on any of the lines I've done here." So you haven't had to bail off a route before? No nylon around a boulder even? No v-threads? No rap pins, nuts, and such? That shit doesn't just magically "POOF" disappear you know... I think Kelsey learned his retro-bolting lessons. There's really no need to keep hammering him with his past mistakes. And blaming anyone for the proposed ban is just silly. There was bolts before your arrival here John and I promise you there will be bolts after your departure. John, go solo something and find your peace. These bolting hissy fits just aren't worth it. You'll be a better climber for it, it's all just mental masturbation. Kelsey, thanks for the book, it's not easy... Can't wait for another one. cheers