Ah, We did it in a more relaxed three day trip.
Day 1- Get permits, stop at Lake Ann for a swim, head up the chimneys and set up camp below winnies slide.
Day 2- Summit, break camp, descend the chimneys, set up lower camp at Lake Ann.
Day 3- Hike out
Have fun!
Was up there on July 4, so this is going to be a little dated.
Lake Ann - Perfect for swimming! A very welcoming lake in the heat especially on the way down.
Chimney's - Totally bare. Followed beta similar to this for route finding up the chimney's: http://www.onthesharpend.com/2009/10/30/mt-shuksan-fisher-chimneys/. I accidentally took us climbers right up the last gully instead of left so we had to downclimb a bit. Other than that, I think the chimneys were pretty straightforward.
Hell's Highway - Not much to say about this, Winnies Slide was steeper, conditions were good when we went up. Picture of us heading up Hells Highway
Gully of the Summit Pyramid - We ended up taking the 5.4 variation which turned out to be a clusterfuck (Because everyone else thought this was a good idea too). Seemed like there was A LOT of loose rock in the main gully which we ended using to descend. Did a combination of downclimbing and rappelling.
We camped right before Winnies slide. There was a spot ~3 tents.
Left camp around 5:00 AM I think. In retrospect would have preferred to leave slightly earlier to beat the crowds.
Camp:
This is right after Winnies Slide. The crevasses were easy to navigate though I remember making a comment that it could get tricky in a few weeks.
On Summit day we ended up descending down to Lake Ann which was a good decision because getting down the chimneys took longer than we thought. (down climbed most of it with a few raps)
A few more pictures on my Flickr site:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/34779536@N04/
Sounds brutal. As I read that I was having PTSD from the mosquitoes while hiking to the base of Stuart. Those things were relentless. Doesn't sound as nasty as your experience though.
Did the West Ridge on 6/27. Decided to take an ice axe and crampons to be safe. Ended up not being necessary to have them, though I was happy to have my ice axe.
There was still a little patch of snow as you make your way over to Long John Tower. A group that passed us did not have crampons or ice axe. If the snow was harder, probably wouldn't have been very much fun
There is still a big snow patch on the way down the Cascadian Couloir. Once again, the snow was soft enough that crampons and ice axe weren't necessary but I was happy to have my axe. (Just depends on comfort level).
Here is an picture from over the weekend with some landmarks... hopefully I didn't mess our route up too bad. It is approximate.
High Resolution Image
Planning on Stuart West Ridge next weekend and was wondering if anyone has been up lately. I was thinking no on crampons and yes to ice axe for descending the cascadian couloir. Anyone have beta?
Back from a recent trip out to the Enchantments and Leavenworth cragging, and I seem to have left behind my camera. I suspect it was left in one of two locations.
1. Playground Point Crag off Icicle Road near the route "Fathers Day"
2. In a campground off FR 7601. About 2.2 miles down to the left there is a dirt road leading to a few campsites, at the very end of the road I stayed 2 nights and might have forgotten it there.
The Camera is a Sony RX100 in a black Sony Case. This is probably a longshot but if found please PM me or shoot me an email at kinkbmxco @ yahoo.com
Thanks.