fromsealevelbaby
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[TR] Mount Terror - West Ridge 07/25/2020
fromsealevelbaby replied to Kuato's topic in North Cascades
Spectacular trip!. I like the bullet point details. Do climbers know where the registry book is hidden? Waterproof paper, but still I assume it has to be protected somewhat from winter elements.Spectacular trip!. I like the bullet point details. Do climbers know where the registry book is hidden? Waterproof paper, but still I assume it has to be protected somewhat from winter elements. -
[TR] Forbidden Peak - Northwest Face 07/25/2020
fromsealevelbaby replied to The Real Nick Sweeney's topic in North Cascades
Way to go. Nice work. I enjoyed your report site. Big respect for your climbing discipline. It's not my approach to climbing mountains (I'm a basic volcano alpinist as part of my high endurance activities) but wish I had time to add rock climbing to my activities. I'd have good teachers I know, and it looks like a blast. Really beautiful scenery. -
For the record, I'd like to give great thanks to my support team. My wife, Debbie, general support manager, including rolling support in SUV and trailhead transition lead. Jim & Mary Fuenzalida drove the van of bicycles and handled bicycle transitions as well as rolling support for portions. Erik Hodge was base/low camp transition lead on the White Chuck glacier, and carried half of the supporting gear and a bit of food/water. And the aforementioned Aaron Mainer carried the other 1/2 of the supporting gear to base camp and helped conduct my transition in addition to his mountain guide role.. I went light, and had a small crew.... but a powerful, experience, generous, and enthusiastic one. Also, the the rough estimate is 134 cycling (1/4 unpaved) with gross 7,500 ft. climbing , 43 miles hiking with gross roughly 11,500 ft climbing (descending GP to TH has 4 or 5 distinct ups). So roughly 19,000 ft gross climbing total.
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Thanks, Rad. Nice of you to say. But Mr. Kropp road his bike self supported.....to be fair a really, really long way., He's a legend. I come from a bicycle racing background so I like to ride that way, although before that in 1985 I rode solo and self-supported across the US west to east coast, so carried all my gear. Of similarity though is that I'm in large part of Swedish descent (hence my last name).
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Trip: Glacier Peak & Mt. Pilchuck from Puget Sound Round Trip in Single Push - Standard from South (N. Sauk) Trip Date: 07/25/2020 Trip Report: As the "location" description states, this was a "single push", all human powered, sea-to-GP-to-Pilchuck-to-sea, 27 hrs and 44 min. I reached the Glacier Peak summit from sea (Puget Sound) level in 11 hrs and 7 minutes, starting at 10PM on Fri, 7/25/2020 from a point on the water a few miles west of I-5 and Marysville, after a 60 mile combination paved and unpaved bicycle rides via Barlow Pass, then heading out on foot from the North Sauk River TH. My time from the TH to the summit was 6 hrs 49 min, and that includes the windy/cold 14 min transition to some different gear (but still minimal/light) and a concentrated downing of food at a lower/base camp on the White Chuck Glacier a bit off from the beaten path because of the great rock to sit on, so it was worth the travel extra time. I did have a physical problem during the bicycle ride that caused a collective delay for me that was timed as over 12 minutes, so without that snafu my sea to summit time would have been sub-11 hours. Round trip from the TH to summit was 13 hrs 24 min, including both that 1st 14 min trans and a second 16 minutes one on the way back, and also enjoyed 9 amazing minutes on the summit. Glacier Gap (high camp) to the summit was 2 hrs 2 min. which included the time to put on Kahtoola light crampons (not their Microspikes, which I did use also but on the lower glaciers, etc.). So travel time was sub 2 hrs. I Did a bit of running on the river trail on the way out, but not on the way back because it would have compromised the sizable amount of work I still needed to do after returning to the TH. This was a supported trip, including my super talented guide, Aaron Mainer, that I've worked with on these projects over a period of 13 years, who I met up with at the White Chuck Glacier transition point, and he expertly paced me from there to the summit. Even when I lead on the exposed lower rib scree stretch, he monitored me closely. Pacing is important, but even more so is the safety aspect. On ult-high endurance endeavors my wife appreciates that I have a skilled guide to climb with who knows how to maximize safety (as well as speed and fun all at the same time). Back at the TH, I bicycled back down to the Mountain Loop Biway, then back up to Barlow Pass (tough), then back down again to 1,000 ft before starting up the Mt. Pilchuck road. Anyone who has been there knows how bad the road up is, but on an off round bicycle you can wind your way through the potholes so it's manageable (and exciting on the way down). TH at 3,000 ft, and then hiked the remaining 2,300 ft to the fire lookout (5,341 ft). Summit-to-summit was 12 hrs 12 min. Sub 12 would have been nice but let me tell you that after almost 24 hrs on the move, one does what they can. It was at about 9:30 PM and there was a party going on in an around the lookout, with people putting up decorations inside. This was troubling to me both because I don't know it that's allowed to be taken over, especially during a pandemic (...but whatever...), and also because I was tired and just wanted to enjoy the bit of emotional peace, quiet I was expecting to have, plus solitude (except for Aaron, who hiked out and then drove to the TH to go up with me and make sure I was safe coming down the bouldery/hazardous upper have of the trail when coming down in the dark fairly fast). People surely wondered why I was wearing a helmet, but I didn't care that they had no idea what I'd done before getting there. After the wild night ride back to the hwy passing cars along the way, and then back to the start, the total time was 27 hrs and 44 min. So I finally finished all 5 WA volcanos, round trip single-push from sea level, with extra peaks included for extra challenge. Before this I did Columbia River (Kalama/Woodlind) to Mt. Adams/St. Helens summits single push and back, in 2018. My Cascade Climbers post for Shuksan/Baker in 2011 is: https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/82364-tr-mt-shuksan-and-mt-baker-in-single-push-fisher-chimneys-shuksan-and-park-glacier-baker-8132011/?tab=comments#comment-1026406 And before that in 2008 was Puget Sound/Rainier Summit/Puget Sound in 19 hrs 57 min. Like all the other things, like video from NWCN, etc. It's all disappeared. So much for documentation on the internet (frustrating ) But here is an important remaining reference to me on this site. Someone gave me credit:https://fastestknowntime.proboards.com/thread/54/mt-rainier-wa That's it. Shuksan/Baker made it onto the front page of the Sunday Bellingham Herald with a big picture, but they long ago purged all their old stories because the parent company wanted them to. I begged them to bring it back, and they did, but then it disappeared again. Same with Tacoma News Tribune (top 10 adventures of the year article). I'd like to get the Seattle Times to pick this up, but we'll see. I'm generally private about my endeavors, for various reasons you can imagine, but now that I've finished the 5 volcanos (and I'm deep into 57 yrs old now) I want to write out them. Not a big social media guy, but have considered YouTube, Outside Mag., etc. Any other ideas? -Randall Nordfors, Woodinville WA. Washington native. I also go by "Randy" sometimes. Gear Notes: Went light. Short pants, Kahtoola microspikes and Kahtoola lightweight crampons. Poles, and light boots with gaitors, minimal pack. No ax or helmet. Knew from experience on GP that it was an okay gear choice on a perfect day (which it was). Approach Notes: West of Marysville by bicycle to North Sauk River TH, then standard route from south.
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So glad that you had a chance to see my trip report. That sounded fun what you were up there for....snow measurements, etc. Hey, thanks for re-setting my flags. It really helped the porters, and the one near the chain lakes turnoff was important. At night in the fog we got lost for a short bit, even using GPS. About the time we got back on track I saw a flag emerge from the fog....that's happiness. One of your party mentioned a relay race comming up, but I haven't found anything on it yet to see if I'm avaiable.
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Thanks! Yes I remember you guys. We talked to you and your party both at Lake Ann on the way up, and at Winnie's Slide on our way down. I discuss that a little more as a reply on your trip report. Give Shuksan another try! It's fun to see that people we ran into read my trip report! Your were at the pyramid looking over and seeing the cloud that we were in on Baker. Wild time.
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[TR] Mt Shuksan - Fisher Chimney 8/13/2011
fromsealevelbaby replied to PowderHounder's topic in North Cascades
Hey PowderHound. Thanks for recalling that you saw us on Shuksan, and thanks for commenting on my trip report. I guess we saw you twice, once at Lake Ann and next on Winny's Slide on our way down from the Summit. You guys looked quite relaxed there sunning on the rocks, and while that seemed like a great idea we did have a lot of work ahead of us heading to Baker so not much time to chat. That was smart for you to abort your summit bid. Yes, Baker was ensconced in fog, but at 5am (the same time you were at the pyramid), we were half way up the Park glacier and committed to summiting Baker and above the clouds it cleared up nicely between 6 and 7 AM but the 8 AM summit was fogged in as can be seen in my photo. Anyway, it was nice to see that your party was having a good time, and it's nice to know that someone saw us on that leg of tour journey. Give Shuksan another try. You'll find the pyramid will present similar challenges to what you found in the Chimneys. It took us the same time for both, so it will for you also, probably so plan your time accordinging. So good job and think of it as a recon, providing info for the future. -
Trip: Mt. Shuksan and Mt. Baker in single push after bicycling from sea level - Fisher Chimneys (Shuksan) and Park Glacier (Baker)- and returning Date: 8/13/2011 Trip Report: http://www.bellinghamherald.com/2011/08/21/2148673/kirkland-man-pedals-103-miles.html I bicycled from Bellingham to Heather Meadows above the Mt. Baker Ski area. Climbed both Mt. Shuksan and Mt. Baker, and then bicycled back to Bellingham, all in a single 33.5 hour push. I hired Pro Guiding Service (PGS) as my guides (Aaron, Ben and Trevor) and one porter, Leah(seems like last names are generally not posted on this site so for now I won’t until I’m sure it’s okay. Mine is in the article, so the cats out of the bag on that). One guide (Aaron) summited both mountains with me, and I had an extra guide on each that worked a single mountain. I also had six volunteer porters at Camp Kiser to bring in fresh climbing gear for myself and one guide. There's really so much to tell that unless I edit/add to this later, it's best for me to be brief. This was two years in the making, involving a lot of planning and training. Please read the article. Aaron and I climbed climbed both peaks last year, each in single pushes, along the same routes in order the gauge the time and effort it would take. On game day, Sat. Aug. 13th 2011, the weather was perfect and the conditions were great. I bicycled up the 58 miles in 3.5 hours (roughly 0-5000 ft), semi-conservatively but still fast. We had to hike straight up to the trail head from the Visitor Center, but otherwise there was just enough melt-off after such a large snow pack that it didn’t slow us down too much. Ben and I reached Lake Ann in 90 minutes, where we met Leah and Aaron, geared up and headed off. We climbed both Fisher Chimneys and the summit pyramid each in 45 minutes, and our round trip time from the Lake Ann Trail head was 11.5 hours. Then came nightfall, and as we took a short break to eat from our cache the heavy fog rolled in obscuring the full moon we were counting on for navigation. Route finding was challenging initially around Table Mountain (my fault), but we eventually we were back on track and arrived at Camp Kiser at the stroke of midnight. Our transition there was sort of long, at almost an hour (party atmosphere), but before long Aaron, Trevor, and I headed for the Portals. We had to weave our way around crevasses below the Park glacier, but then worked our way up. Finding a way across one particular crevasse further up was time consuming, and access to the bergschrund was more difficult than last year. The condition of the interior was not as inviting either, but we succeeded in positioning ourselves to ascend the arête and then push for the summit. We topped out at 8 AM on Aug. 14th, now in a cloud with no view but happy to be there. We descended the Coleman/Deming route, running past rope teams left and right, and met my Heliotrope Ridge Trail team for a transition to trail running shoes for a run down the trail which went surprisingly well considering how much my feet had hurt in my boots. Lake Ann Trail head to Heliotrope Trail head took less than 14.5 hours. After a fast and fun mountain bike ride on damp 8 miles of road down to Glacier, a switch to a road bike was my final transition on my way back to Bellingham. In all it took less than 33.5 hours, of which about 3.5 hours of that consisted of the combination of seven transition points, plus time spent on the summits plus a few short breaks to put on or take off layers, etc. As the crow/hawk flies, the summits are 17 miles apart and it took less than 17 hours between them, while the path is anything but straight. That’s about all I should say for now or else I’d launch into a lot more of the finer detail. I loaded photos which you can view in my photo section. I didn't embed them in the post. Gear Notes: Nothing special. Approach Notes: The trail through the wooded area along the swift creek valley floor had mostly melted out by then, thankfully. The big winter avalanche sites on either end had made it difficult to find the optimal way through earlier. A climber even needed to be rescued after getting lost a few weeks earlier on a day I'd been through there training. The Ptarmigan Ridge approach to Camp Kiser was generally fine, even in the dark and fog, and at this time up year it was expected to find lots of crevasses on Mt. Baker lower down especially but it was manageable.