chazmart

We were on the same schedule as Daniel's group. We left just before his group at 5:35am and topped out at 10:55am. Five hours and twenty minutes from camp to summit. The last few hundred feet took a while up and down due to snow in the gully. On the way up it was firm. On the way down it was slush, so we rapped all the way down until we were on continuous snow below the gully. We left some gear as some existing rap stations looked questionable. Better to leave a few dollars worth of gear than have a failed rap anchor. Returned to camp by 4:30, packed up camp, departed camp at 6:30 and back to cars at 9:30pm. In order of summiting, there was a guided party of four, a party of two, one of Daniel's group, our party of two, another party of two, two more of Daniel's group, another party of two, the remaining three of Daniel's group. That was all I saw during the day. Rangers said on a busy weekend there may be up to 45 climbers summiting during the day. We saw one party doing it as a day trip. Most others were camped overnight. A little bit of congestion in the gully but nothing major. People were polite and took turns. We were only delayed by a few minutes here and there, and we delayed one other party by a few minutes. I think an earlier start is better, snow conditions will be better on ascent and descent.