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vsigler

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Posts posted by vsigler


  1. Does anyone have any route information concerning Ruth Mountain and/or Icy Peak as climbed from the Hannegan Pass Trailhead? I am specifically looking for snow bridge conditions on the approach, snow elevation, and glacier conditions on Icy Peak. Thanks.


  2. I have had a Suunto Traverse for a year and it has functioned well. I live in Indiana, and get out west to climb in the summer, so I don't have dozens of climbing experiences with it, but I used it for a total of seven days in the Cascades last year and it was reliable (altitude, waypoints, etc.).  I also use it for xc skiing, running, paddling, etc. I find the display easy to read and interpret, although finding your way through all of the functions was a little cumbersome at first...give yourself to some time to become acquainted with it before you rely on it to pull you out of the woods. One quick story; we were coming down from the Ruth Mountain summit towards a camp on the SW shoulder of the mountain and passed through a notch in the ridge that we would need to pass through again on the way back off the mountain the next day. it was a bluebird day, but the forecast was for unstable weather the next day, when we would be descending. I took a waypoint with the watch at the notch, just in case visibility was poor later.  Well, visibility became really poor the next day, probably less than 100 ft. We would have found the notch with a little searching, but I wanted to see if the watch would guide us in navigation mode, and it did, exactly to the spot where I marked the waypoint...nice insurance in case you really need it one day. It interfaces nicely with the MovesCount app, which I believe meshes with most of the Suunto watches.  The app is great, allowing you to not only upload trip data from the watch, but also to manually input data for any type of workout/activity...a nice logging tool.  It also will differentiate different activities based on what sport mode the watch is in (mountaineering vs. running vs. skiing, etc...all customizable). Some people report issues with the watch syncing seamlessly with the app when uploading data, and while it does take a little time to upload hours and hours of data, I have not had any problems.  I have no other "navigation" watches to compare with, but I would recommend it. PM me if you would like more info. 


  3.  I am planning on heading up Ruth Mountain this week, and hopefully doing the travers to Icy Peak. I am interested in hearing from anyone who is familiar with current conditions up there. Specifically, I am interested in knowing how the snow bridges are holding up on the Hannigan Trail on the way in to the mountain, if they are even still there. I also would like to know of the conditions on the rock pinnacle of Icy Peak.  Thank you.


  4. Thanks for the info. Yes, will be doing this later in the spring for sure. Most of the trip reports I read mention two summit blocks; NW and SE. Which is the more straightforward way to go? I will have a first-timer with me and I want to limit the fear-factor. Thank you.


  5. I would like to do the Ruth-Icy Peak traverse this spring, and am a little confused about the technical difficulty of the Icy Peak summit block. I understand that Icy has multiple summit blocks, and have read that the difficulty ranges from a "scramble" to 4th-class climbing. Can anyone shed some light on the grade, assuming clean conditions, which block is most often attempted, and also suggest an appropriate rack to bring, if needed? Thanks.


  6. I am looking to climb Middle Sister sometime in mid-late June. I understand that one can approach the mountain either from the east or west. Which approach is best, if either, during that time of year? I would like to spend three days on the mountain, so I am also asking for any suggestions for camp areas that might facilitate multiple routes up either North or South Sister, as well. This might not even be possible, as I don't know the area so well yet. Thanks.


  7. Some time ago, someone posted a link to videos showing some fairly realistic self arrest footage. If I remember correctly, they were shot on glacial ice, and the point of the videos was to demonstrate the violent nature of arresting a crevasse fall by a roped partner, and how anchors handle high shock loads. The videos were not fancy productions, and might have been from overseas (Russia, maybe?). Can anyone reference these (I know a million of these are out there...hoping to track down these specific ones though)? Thanks.


  8. I should probably clarify a little...I am not affiliated with the school in any way, other than as a parent of kids that attend. I use the term "high school" merely to indicate the age of the participants. I have addressed the liability issues with local lawyers and they will be involved in a few contractual items, as much as they need to be, and I will absolutely have another adult with me. I have climbed with both of my sons and a few of their friends in Colorado on numerous occasions, so I am familiar with the logistics...and yes they are a bit hairy, but the trips are a blast. I certainly appreciate the concern of this forum community, as well as the helpful advice.


  9. These are all great ideas. I now have a list of at least four mountains that each could fit our objectives very well. Concerning Colchuck Peak, I am familiar with the overnight permitting process and the limit of eight people per party. Does this limit include only those camping near the lake (below tree line), or does it also include those on the glacier itself? It looks like some flat areas are present on the glacier that are suitable for camping. I still don't know how many people might go, and won't for some time, but would like to at least begin thinking about any limitations or restrictions based on the number of participants. Thanks.


  10. Thanks for all of the feedback. To answer JasonG's question, I bought my Trango Alps at least six years ago (my boots last a long time, as I live in Ohio and only get to climb a couple of times a year). They are pretty worn now but I really do like them aside from the snug box. I will definitely look into another, new pair, especially if they are a little more roomy. I am going to look at Scarpas too.


  11. OK...fairly specific topic here, so I am helping someone can provide a little input. I currently own a pair of LaSportiva Trango Alps, and previously a few pairs of LS Makalus. In each case, the boots fit great with the exception of the toe box. While a wider toe box would have been great, in each boot, the height of the toe box (i.e., the vertical space in the toe box) seemed very limited, and has resulted in some constriction and discomfort, especially on descent. Does anyone know of a mountaineering boot that is roomier in the toe box than those listed above? For reference, I climb the same stuff everyone else does, like glaciated routes in the Cascades, and the occasional steep couloir. Thanks.


  12. We certainly would be doing a weekday trip, so hopefully any permit issues would be somewhat alleviated by our timing. These students will not be skilled in rock climbing, but will be able to handle scrambling for sure. From feedback during presentations/discussion I've had with them about my climbing experiences, they definitely want the snow/ice alpine experience, which is why I suggested some glaciated routes. Jeremy.O mentioned Colchuck Peak above, and after looking up some TRs, it looks like it could be a really nice choice. It has a decent approach, some camps near the lake, and if we would like to go a little higher, a camp in the snow on the moraine (we would try for June so hopefully some snow will be hanging on), a glacier with what appears to be low crevasse hazard, and a little scrambling up top. It seems to have a little of everything that makes mountaineering exciting for a beginner. I don't need to make decisions for a while but Colchuck is on the short list, probably along with Ruth and Silver Star. Thank you for the input, and keep it coming for sure.


  13. Thanks for the input. Yes, lots of contingencies will be in place...no worries there. I have climbed a few of the mountains suggested, and most recently climbed Eldorado, and think that aside from the upper ridge, it's a great mountain for the group, but that last 100 feet might be a little too sketchy for these beginners. Ruth Mountain looks interesting, if for no other reason than the views of Mt. Baker and Shuksan. What about Middle- and South Sister in Oregon? Can a camp be established on the Hayden Glacier, with the possibility of getting up both mountains? I will be investigating the other suggestions, as well. Thanks for the great ideas.


  14. I am planning on taking a group of high-school students on a mountain climb next summer and am looking for ideas for a mountain/route. The students have not climbed before, but will be physically fit, versed in the basics of mountain travel, including glacier travel and safety, and will be equipped for such conditions. I am looking for a route that will provide around 4000-5000 ft of elevation gain. We will camp for two nights on the mountain, and am open to a lower and upper camp, if needed. A glacier would be nice, if for no other reason but to give the trip a true alpine feel. Rock scrambling is OK, but the group will not be able to do much more than that. I need a fresh pair of eyes to give me ideas, because what I consider reasonable might be a little too challenging. Thank you.


  15. Hello:

    I'm planning on heading up Eldorado Peak this week via the Eldorado- and Inspiration Glaciers. Has anyone been up recently who can provide some information about route conditions, East Ridge, etc? I would like to camp on the Inspiration Glacier, so any details about the condition of the glacier would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Von

     


  16. I am interested in Eldorado Peak for August 4/5 with an overnight on the mountain. I have glacier travel and rescue experience, as well as experience with several trips in the Cascades and Rockies. PM me or email to vonsigler@icloud.com if you are interested. I also sent a PM.

    Von

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