[[TR] Mt Baker - N Ridge 5/3/2015]

I was in the group that took the lower route. We also spied that snowy ramp through the ice-wall. We opted to climb around the left on the arete instead and found a 60m pitch of great blue ice.

 

I think the passage out right isn't necessary when the crevasses at the top are bridged over. We went straight up the obvious snow slope at the top and it lead right to the summit.

 

 

[[TR] Chehalis Range - BC - South Face - Viennese Peak 7/2/2014]

I was up there earlier this year and found the trail to the upper lake was pretty well marked and easy to follow. It is probably not as direct as your route however!

[Which alpine tool to buy?]

Did you need to add some sort of stopper to the bottom of the shafts? I've seen people drill and place a bolt.

Yes. Just above the spike I drilled in to the shaft and tapped it to accept two M4 stainless screws. They only stick out enough to retain the slider and do not interfere with plunging at all. I can easily remove the slider if I take out the screws.

[Which alpine tool to buy?]

The Venom has no pinky/trigger grip, and I want to go leashless/umbilicized.

 

I fitted Grivel Easy Sliders to a pair of Venoms (a 57cm axe and a 50cm hammer). It was super simple to do and the end result is very functional as well as clean and professional looking.

[Info on Slesse conditons.]

 

Taken from Rexford on August 1. The rumble from icefall on Slesse once the sun hit the glaciers was impressive. Every few minutes all day long.