GNARnia

Trip: Prussik Peak - Beckey-Davis-Rhoderick-TownSEND-Stanley-Burgner Date: 6/27/2014 Trip Report: I was lucky enough to snaffle up a Snow Lakes camping pass this week, as well as an excellent partner to head up mid week with. We had plans of doing more routes up there but the weather moved in and I bonked hard on our first day. Working off a very poor printout of the Nelson-Potterfield topo we started up the Beckey-Davis route instead of Stanley-Burgner but the last pitch is so obvious Helen Keller could get there (with some spray). On the summit Johnny and I were convinced that was the hardest 5.9 we had ever done, and that we had found a way around the 5.9 squeeze, which in reality was 100 ft to our left. I found the description ambiguous enough to believe we were on route the whole time (Der Routefinding) Almost got our rope stuck on the last rap, got into camp at 10PM after 16 hours on the move. P1: Started up a #4 sized crack left of the Beckey-Davis Chimney, eventually hit the chimney, encountering a pin, & the belay buttonheads. From here I headed up a gully with a tricky knob traverse to a tree at 70M Mproj description said a 5.8 crack left of a chimney, easily linked to a tree so we thought we nailed it! P2: Continued up the gully, then left up a series of fun finger cracks, ending on Snafflehound Ledge Mproj said head up to the highest tree with a think crack going up. I think there was a think crack P3: We thought we were now on the 5.8 OW pitch of S-B. Directly above Snaffle Hound is a great OW with knobs on the outside and chockstones inside for respite. It protected adequately with our rack and the knobs encouraged me to layback and mantle around the gnarlier bits. Eventually it let off into a gully, right before I lost visual contact I built a belay in a .5/.75 crack. We assumed it was just the hardest 5.8 we'd ever done, but it was obviously harder than the 5.9+ pitch. P4: We chose a finger crack instead of a squeeze that was above us, making us think we were still on route. Its relatively moderate until you hit a finger traverse that brings you to the big ledge below the final pitch. My topo is probably off here, but its pretty straightforward. P5: The last pitch of Stanley-Burgner, super fun! Thought it would be harder after the shit we put ourselves through. The rock was basically wonderful the whole way through, which is a testament to Prussik. Has anyone done what was our P3? Its a great offwidth, and very prominent from the base, it certainly has to have been climbed before. "Der 5.8" OW "Pretty sure we are on route" Gear Notes: "Dude I would totally blow someone for a #4 right now" Approach Notes: Snow Lakes Trail, there's little bit of snow underneath Prussik & Vivianne.

Looking for partners on my first trip to Index, especially on the weekdays. Ill be at the camp, in a blue VW Jetta. I lead 12c sport and 11b trad at Smith, looking forward to a nice Index Spanking at any grade! Will bribe with beer if/as needed. Jon

Hi all, I'm thinking of hitting the Bozeman Ice Fest next week. I'm in Terrebonne but I'm down to meet up with anyone who wants to get after some ice. My car gets around 42-45 mpg on this 790 mile drive, $150 of total gas to be split. 1-3 people are welcome to come, so let me know and we can swing our picks! Jon

Recently got posted up on Alpinist, on top of all that fear they say his belayer never held a lead fall before!!

They are cobra's with laser picks, the picks are the source of rust and not the tools for sure, I might change them out to some newer versions and see if it was just an older batch that was more rust prone. Will have to grab some steel wool but overall I'm not that concerned because filing will take the rust off the important bits.

This is my first season on ice, and I've been getting considerable amounts of rust on my picks and the inside of the pick head interface on my tools. Right now it is purely cosmetic but at the speed it generates I could envision it being a problem later on. Has anyone had this problem and found a way to alleviate rust?