kheegan

Hi, my partner and I are thinking about doing the Kautz in July, in some form of alpine-style, either car-to-car or carry-over to DC. If car-to-car, we'll probably have to do a lot of climbing in the dark before sunrise. Is feasible to navigate through the Kautz in the dark for someone who is unfamiliar with the route?

I mentioned the M Teton couloir because it's something I had done before (as a second) and it's at a level I'd feel comfortable leading. In the conditions I climbed it was definitely a solid AI3 at 60-70 degrees for a couple of pitches and even some mixed action when the ice narrowed to shoulder width . Thanks for the suggestions... I'd have to look them up. I've been using Nelson/Potterfield as a reference, but I guess I'll have to dig up the Beckey guidebooks for those routes.

I'm planning a trip to WA this summer, and would like to get on some longish ice routes (AI3 or thereabouts) if possible. Right now I'm considering Baker NR and Kautz, but ideally I'm looking for routes with a similar level of difficulty and length as the NW ice couloir on Middle Teton. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!