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Posts posted by JZickler

  1. Would have been an asshole move to "blow by" any team on the first two pitches by my estimation. It was an icefall shit storm as is without trying to climb on top of other teams. At the top of pitch two we opted to simulclimb right of the rock band up an unknown (to us) chute and found some spicy mixed climbing just below the summit. Sure the first team was painfully slow but it's not reasonable to expect to have that route to yourself on a sunny Saturday. We were back to the car around 10pm and bobbed for cock the whole drive home. If nothing else, the slow party compelled us to explore new territory and had a great time in the process.

  2. And blue tape? Glad you found it. Spoke with George and his wife today and they said someone had grabbed it but didn't remember who it was. Let me know when I can meet up with you and pick it up. Thanks for your honesty!





  3. So I'm in the market for a new light weight 2 person 4 season mountaineering tent.

    It will be used mainly on Cascade volcanoes.

    I think I have it narrowed down to two models


    1- Mountain Hardwear Spire 2.1


    2- Black Diamond Firstlight w/ vestibule


    Anyone have experience with either one?

    Other thoughts or advice?




  4. I just applied for one last week and it was a nightmare to say the least. I was the first one in line at 0930 and after submitting the necessary paperwork and waiting for the interview I did not get out of the DOL until 1300. With the EDL you can travel to Canada, Mexico, and the Caribbean. The DOL gives you an aluminum carrying case that blocks the radio frequency when you are not using the license. The DOL employee insisted that there are firewalls and security measures in place to prevent personal information from being accessed by unauthorized devices. The license does not emit a signal until it comes within proximity of an authorized reader device. It's much cheaper ($15) than a passport, but If I could do it again I think I would have chosen that option.

  5. I climbed Rainier with RMI last summer and it was much easier than I expected. Granted, we had ideal weather and the guides (world class guides I might add) did all the route finding so as a client all you really need to do is put one foot in front of the other. Two of the guys on my rope were 60+ and made it no problem. The pace is slow and manageable. Master the rest step and pressure breathing techniques they will teach you the first day they are valuable tools to have. From what you have disclosed about your training habits I'm sure you have the fitness to summit if Rainier lets you.