tguzman

Trip: Colchuck and Dragontail Peaks - Ascend Colchuck Glacier, Descend Asgard Pass Date: 6/8/2008 Trip Report: Most important single note take Crampons and if you ascend Dragontail via Colchuck Glacier, take rope and pickets (the Asgard route route should not need rope). Trailhead, Saturday 3pm. Colchuck Lake by 6pm. Very busy camping around the lake circa 20 tents. By today there should be no ice left on the lake and there was very little snow except for close to the Glacier. 6.30 pm we camped under Colchuck Glacier, which is a fast ascent spot, however is exposed from wind off Glacier if it's windy. Given the number of teams, we left very early to avoid any bottlenecks and there were several. 4.50am headed straight up Colchuck Glacier (avoided moraine side to right). There were very limited boot steps and it's mainly ice so crampons a must from get go. 7am Colchuck Saddle. Relatively easy scramble/kickstep up. 8am summit. 8.45 am back down at saddle. Met a large mountaineers team just getting onto saddle and decided to make haste right past them and up the Col. Col was steep, crampons optional but recommended(thanks to boots steps from previous parties). Top of Col was the crux. A small lip, partly vertical, with little protection below and a mix of snow & ice forced a fixed line (5 pickets. note: could have used rock protection but not easily). By the time the line was setup and our team was descending 2 other teams (11 and 9) had reached. Traverse to Dragontail was mixed snow and slight ice but posed us no technical challenges. Scramble to Dragontail Peak by 11am. Part downclimbed, but mainly Glassaded to the pass. Met 2 teams coming up. One team attempted Dragontail via Asgard on Saturday but turned back because they did not have crampons, then camped Saturday nite for another attempt sunday. We Descended Dragontail via Asgard. Mix of Moraine hoping and Glassading. There was rock slide potential so be careful if there are large teams above. Back at camp 1.45pm. Left camp 2.30pm (base of Colchuk Glacier), back at Trailhead 5.20pm. Gear Notes: Rope, Pickets, Crampons + Essentials Approach Notes: Team of 8.