madeinmontana
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Posts posted by madeinmontana
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Dropped a camera off the top of Diedre on June 6th. Pretty sure it made it all the way to the base and stopped somewhere climbers left of the regular start of the route. I'm sure its in a bunch of pieces but I would love retrieve the memory card if possible. Lots of personally valuable pics on there. Tons of beer to whoever can help me out! Thanks.
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Nice work...did the same route two weeks ago and it was most certainly not T-shirt and shorts weather. Woke up under a nice dusting of snow and ice on the second day. The jealousy is overwhelming. Nice work. The Cascadian absolutely SUCKS.
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Fine work gentleman. Puking by 1 huh? Sorry I missed it.
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short answer...NO, they aren't really less likely to need professional help anymore than others as a group...
I agree with that. If its bad we would all need help no matter where we learned our stuff. Why such an issue with those who want to break into the sport without the initial resource of a friend to informally show you these things?
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No...I have no reason to think that you are not a great climber and make good decisions. No one is invincible. Something like rockfall does not discriminate between the best and the worst. I wasn't implying that your skills were going to get you in trouble and im sorry if I wasn't more clear on that.
Calling people in a paticular organization morons is personal. Sorry, I can't find any other way to read that.
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actually, maidinmontana, you are right...most of the climbers on this website (or elsewhere)who didn't get formal training are complete jokes...
[DRIPPING SARCASM]
Could you point me to where I said that? I do however remember you saying "not really...as mounties/boealps attracts morons...
" This is much more presumptious than anything I have said here and most certainly "rips" on the experience level of those associated with these classes. I don't care where you get your knowlege as long as you have it. I gladly climb with people who haven't taken a class.
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pretty big leap of yours to just assume that if you didn't attend one of your rinky dinky classes that there is no other way of getting knowledge, don'tcha think???
Not really. I'm sure quite a few people don't bother to learn this stuff. And calling it rinky dink is insulting to those teaching the classes. Many of them with experience that may actually surpass your own (GASP). DON'TCHA THINK?
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The best safety is not to need to be rescued to begin with.
I completly agree. Judgement is probably more important than anything else. Some of this can be gained by listening to higly experienced instructors while also preparing for the worst. Even the best, most cautious climbers can get hurt.
However, I believe RuMR's issues were not with the apparently reckless climbing style being taught in classes, but rather the confiscation of HIS rocks.
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i seriously doubt that the mounties will be rescuing me anytime soon...
although, from what i've seen, it could quite likely be the reverse...ok then build me a safe, efficient rescue system from memory in an acceptable amount of time. I am sure you dilegently review these things so it should be no problem....
This is taught in a BOEALPS course, and something I am sure you would be glad other people know when you get yourself into trouble. Unless you are too proud to be rescued by a graduate of one of these riduculous classes.
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RuMr,
Check you elist attitude at the door. It is a public area. There are many better climbs in Leavenworth in locations other than those listed above.
Cragging in easily accessible areas requires some flexibility on everyones part. I am quite sure that a BOEALPS group wouldn't force anyone off of a climb. Yes, they may be waiting for you to finish, but this is true of most crowded cragging areas. If the group already happens to be there, deal with it, and come up with a new plan.
The skills gained in these types of outings protects the lives of those learning them. I am proud that I have taken these courses in order to better ensure the safety of myself and those I climb with. It has allowed me to progress quickly while remaining safe. I also doubt I would still hear complaints when one of us is rescuing you with a system learned on a weekend spent taking "your" climbing space in Leavenworth.
I appreciate the climbing community because it is generally composed of good natured and cooperative personalities. If you would like to join this community, let us know.
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Exit 38 seems like a huge waste of time. Index or bust!
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Pretty standard bivy gear. Light down jackets, zero degree bags (heavy but totally worth it), basic bivy sack, racsom used his pack/rope for a pad and I had a small inflatable. We had ditched our stove at the lake so no melting (I don't think we would have anyway). Considering the conditions we stayed pretty warm all night. Just had to unclog the bivy mesh every 10 goddamn minutes and make sure we didn't take a ride off the summit ridge.
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Thanks for the photo!
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Great job guys....and you made it down that night! That must have been nice. Nice to meet you at the lake.
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Rascom did an amazing job leading the second pitch of the runnels. Very thin ice over rock!! Be ready for some mixed climbing to get around the corner. The storm that night dropped about 5" so avy danger has definitely increased (some cracks formed as we traversed the summit slope in the morning). Snowshoes would have helped to get to the river crossing on the way back down. Still a pretty good trail the rest of the way down but long after a shitty bivy.
[TR] Squamish BC - Diedre 6/6/2009
in British Columbia/Canada
Posted
Trip: Squamish BC - Diedre
Date: 6/6/2009
Trip Report:
Climbed Diedre on Saturday. Fun and crowded as ever. Took two people up for their first multi-pitch and they loved it. Looks like we have two new rock climbers out there.
Only bummer of the trip...our camera was dropped from the top of the route (wind was super stong and blew it off the flat ledge while trying to take a timed shot) and is now in many pieces somewhere at the base of the Apron. I think it stopped somewhere climbers left of the regular start of Diedre. I know the camera is toast, but if anyone finds the portion with the memory card I would be forever in your debt. There are some personally valuable pics on there. Many, many beers for the person with the sharpest eyes. Thank you!
Gear Notes:
extra camera