StateOfGrace

Trip: Redoubt/Spickard - S. Rte (Redoubt)/Silver Glacier & S. Slope (Spick) Date: 7/18/2008 Trip Report: Did a trip up Redoubt and Spickard last weekend and thought I would share. By and large the: - Approach was difficult - Climbing was easy - Views were spectacular Pictures can be viewed at http://picasaweb.google.com/Colin.Corbin/RedoubtAndSpickard Redoubt The route up redoubt left to the SW of Lake Ouzel (not on my map - look for the depression to the SW of Spickard at 5600 feet: that's the lake- n 48 57.784 w 121 15.788). Climb slabby buttress several hundred feet to its top. Contour and ascend to the SW until the toe of the glacier is reached. We had snow, but I understand from others that the toe can be quite icy later on. Ascend toe of glacier to the flats. Head West to the col left of the flying buttress. Go through the col at its lowest point. Drop 100 feet to the South slope and traverse to below a steep gully. Ascend right and then left to the top of a shoulder. Ascend the shoulder to a rigthward angling ledge which terminates below a pointy spire on the skyline to the right of the summit. Ascend a steep, narrow gully to its top. At the top, the cannonhole will be in view. Ascend a gully to the right and scramble through the cannon hole (rappel slings in the cannonhole can serve as hand holds for shorter party members). Once through the cannon hole, turn 90 degrees left. Ascend 50 feet of very exposed class four to the summit. A single 60 meter rappel gets you down through the cannonhole to the base of the second gully. Pulling the rope may be difficult if done in one rappel. You may also downclimb if braver than me. The descent then follows the ascent route. Further roping should not be necesarry unless conditions require it ( we ran into steep snow and a couple of small bergschrunds just below the entrance ramp, so we used a rope here). Round trip 10 - 12 hours from camp. Spickard: Silver Glacier To reach the Silver Glacier, ascend talus slopes to the col North of Lake Ouzel. Pass through the col and turn to the East to see the glacier. Make a path up the glacier trending to the right and then back to the left as crevasses permit. This section of the glacier is moderate and not difficult. At about 8,400 feet, the North face is reached. The route passes a bergschrund to the left on steep snow (50+ degrees) to reach the ridge 200 feet below the summit. On our ascent, the ridge access was blocked by the bergschrund all the way across the glacier. We did not feel confident that the tools we had were sufficient (nor were our skills) to make it through the 'schrund. Instead, we passed through a lower col at 8400 feet to the NE side of the mountain hoping to find a way up the ridge on that side. Again, we had a very meager rack and only one thin rope for four climbers, so after taking a look at the ridge top, we rapelled back to the col at 8400 feet and descended the route. We then circled to the other side of the mountain to climb the south slope route. Round trip 10 hours from camp. Spickard: South Slope From Ouzel Lake, ascend to the col to the North. At the top of a heather bench (before reaching the col), turn to the right and traverse slopes until beneath the pocket glacier on the West side of Spickard. Ascend the glacier on the left hand side to reach a dirty col at 7800 feet. Descend 50 feet after the col and turn left for maybe 50 yards. A broad, filthy, uninviting gully leads up the south side near the ridge above the pocket glacier. Ascend this gully near the ridge crest to until a broad slope is reached. Ascend the slope, trending to your right into another gully. Ascend this gully to a notch on your right. Traverse through the notch and contour across several gullies through notches (marked by cairns) until you reach the far ridge. You will know when to turn up hill when you can not proceed further due to cliffs. Ascend the last 300 feet to the summit along the ridge top. Descent is the same as the ascent route. Round trip 7 hours. Gear Notes: Redoubt: Crampons, ice axe, rope, slings Spickard - Silver Glacier: crampons, ice axe, rope, slings, ice screws (depending on season and comfort with steep snow and ice), small rack (a few nuts would do on the ridge which is reputed to be class four) Spickard S Slope: Crampons, axe. Rope may be needed later in the season when more crevasses are showing. Approach Notes: The approach to Lake Ouzel via Depot Creek is arduous. We took 7.5 hours. With nice trail, it would not be difficult. But the trail is poorly maintained. The first four miles are through many blowdowns and the trail is difficult to find at times. That is followed by the waterfall and a steep climb to its top. The way is easier after the top of the falls except for a difficult stream crossing of Depot Creek. Water is plentiful throughout the day. The road is awful. The last two miles require a 4 wheel drive vehicle with good clearance (my 4Runner did fine, except for the many brush scratches).