BDEL

I was planning on heading up to hit the NF sometime this week. I know that it hasn't snowed in over a week, so I'm wondering about how the conditions are going to be, basically, will the ice be all intact, or will some of it have melted out? Thanks for all your help, I just haven't ever been over there before.

Thanks!

I'm looking into buying a new set of cams, I just want to know what the difference is between offsets and regular cams. Thanks!

Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to go with zero long stems #3 and #4, which are the equivalent of a 00 and 0 BD. I also have a Master Cam #1. That's about all I think I'm going to buy for the small stuff (smaller than a .3 BD). Maybe I'll double up on the Zeros, but I don't think I'm going to go smaller than the #3. Thanks!

OK so I checked out the zeros and they look pretty sweet. Does the longer stem on the newer version make a big difference? There is also a larger trigger on the newer one that is appealing. Thanks!

I've heard good things about both Zeros and Aliens, unfortunately they aren't 20% off at REI right now.

I am moving to Leavenworth this summer to do as much climbing as possible whenever the Forest Service doesn't need me. To round out my rack I've decided to buy some small cams. I'm not much into aid climbing, and I have been trying to decide between the C3s and Metolius' Ultralight TCUs. From what I've read they are about equivalent and whichever brand you prefer (Be it BD or Metolius) makes the best TCUs. What I've noticed is the Metolius TCUs have a much larger head width due to the two cables on the sides of the cam lobes. Also, C3s seem much more flexible to me, which is appealing for use in horizontal cracks. I've never used anything that small before, any thoughts? Also, I've been comparing the new Master Cams to the C3s and feel that any difference in head width is negligible when looking at the #1 (Met Blue and BD Red). The Metolius is much more flexible than any of the TCUs and also has 4 lobes. I'm not sure if the 4 lobes is an advantage or not. I called down at Metolius and they said, for those interested in free climbing, try and wait for the 0 and 00 in the Master Cam. They aren't going to start manufacturing them until Mid-June. I think that the Metolius Master Cam would probably be the best buy for size 00 and 0 when compared to the C3 or UL-TCU, due to equivalent (with the C3) range and head size and also has increased flexibility. (Price also is $55) I would appreciate any help with my dilemma. I have no preference between brands, as I own an even mix of Metolius and BD cams as it is (Although I do live in Oregon). Thanks!

They're off. I hope we don't have to hear about this one after today...

I just started climbing ice and would like to go leashless. I think an umbilical cord is a good idea. The only problem is that I don't know how to make one. I've seen some elastic material at REI, but it doesn't look like it has much stretch to it. I've also seen people putting some elastic through some tubular webbing, but this seems a little inefficient and difficult to make. Does anyone have a good system they would recommend? Thanks!

Is the Becky route at Liberty Bell climbable this time of year, or is there ice in all the cracks?