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JulieH

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    neuroscientist
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    between San Diego and Boston

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  1. Found this for Cat Burglar ... definitely not it. http://www.pbase.com/timr/image/91777578 Cat Burglar is also shown as staying to the left of Saber, in the guidebook topo/picture, and the description doesn't match. The most obvious feature to describe, in a route description, would be the huge left-facing corner. Nope, not 5.4, sorry. I'm a Gunks local, have climbed a bunch in Josh and Tahquitz, so I'm no softy nor a stranger to a sandbag. Also climbed a couple of other pitches in Leavenworth, and ... nope, not 5.4.
  2. Hey all, Climbing on Castle last week - I started out on Saber (I think!), but the pic in the guidebook shows the FA party veering left on a ramp, about halfway up the main corner. Being a sucker for corners, I stayed in the corner, up through a notch in an overhang (with a ring piton in the notch), then avoided some really loose steep flakes by stepping far right on a ramp that leaned down left. I belayed above that point, then my partner ran it to the top easy ground. Seemed to me the moves at the top of the corner, then through the notch, were several notches harder than 5.5 - thin feet, awkward locks. The rock was pretty clean (even a bit polished), and chalked in places. So, clearly it gets climbed. But - what was it? The guidebook only lists two routes to the right of Saber - a 5.8+ buttress (ie, not a corner), and an under-described 5.9. So, what did I climb? Grade consensus?
  3. Ok, this board worked really well last week (thanks again John! Great day on Outer Space!) .... so, here I am in Squamish and I'm trolling for partners. I'll be (and I'll leave a note with more specific whereabouts and a cell #) in the Chief campground. I have a maroon Acura with CA plates. Lead 5.8-5.9, prefer crack, I whine on slab
  4. I'm on a roadtrip and will be heading to Squamish later this week ... looking for partners! I lead 5.8 - 5.9, follow to mid 5.10, prefer crack, and have many years of experience (and rack and ropes and ...). Generally easy to get along with. I'll leave a note at the campground with more info. I'd also REALLY like to swing leads up Outer Space with someone who knows the route or area on Wednesday, 7/25 (or Thursday) on my way up north.
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