tahah

I appreciate all the feedback, constructive and otherwise. I've climbed with many people who were slow or had a bad day and never felt any urge to complain publicly. In this case, M so misrepresented her experience and conditioning to me, and judging by her attitude about it, seemed likely to do so again to others, that I felt compelled to post about it. I have now learned that I should not have mentioned her by name, and I apologize to her and others for doing so.

Trip: Shuksan - Price Glacier, attempt Date: 8/23/2010 Trip Report: M invited me to join her on the Price Glacier, a route I'd been eying for some time, so I jumped at the opportunity. As Jiri's recent excellent TR indicated, the turnoff for the climber's trail from the main trail was easy to locate just past the start of the Wilderness Area. After the log crossing, the trail goes up and right before disappearing into the brush. We continued right to Price Creek, crossing on a log jam (flagging). No sign of the trail on the other side, but after going up and left for a ways we picked it up. Generally open forest the whole way up the steep hillside, making for easy travel. The few times we lost the trail, we quickly found it by going straight up. There was a short section of thick slide alder on the flats below Price Lake, then easy travel up the crest of the moraine on the left side of the lake. Do to our very slow pace, we had not made it to our intended camp by the edge of the eastern lobe of the glacier after more than 7 hours, and we were forced to bivy by a snowpatch on the hillside below the ridge. This was the first water source we encountered on the approach other than the silt-laden Price Creek. We awoke at 3:30 to ready ourselves for the climb, but M informed me she was too tried to go on. Desperately not wanting to retrace our approach, I contemplated going on solo if M would be comfortable going back alone, but, understandably, she was not, so very reluctantly we headed back down. On the way down we were able to follow the trail down the steep hillside the whole way until it ended about 400 feet above the crossing of Price Creek. At the log crossing over the Nooksack River we met a couple on their way in. I wished them good luck on the climb, but they informed me they were just going in to camp at Price Lake and come back out the next day. After the initial shock of hearing of such a destination, I felt a little better about the absurdity of our own adventure.

Trip: Green Giant Buttress, Darrington - Dreamer. note: bees nest Date: 8/18/2010 Trip Report: Want to report there is a bees nest near the second belay on Dreamer. It is in a hole just above the ledge that traverses up and left to the anchors, about 10 feet right of and a couple of feet below the anchors. The bees are not aggressive; I was right next to the hive before I heard the buzzing inside the rock and was not stung, and they did not swarm. But perhaps they are best avoided. It is easy to do so by traversing left to the anchors a little below the ledge.

Anyone interested in cragging Wed 8/18 or an alpine trip 8/18 to 8/20? Dates somewhat flexible. I lead 5.9 at index, 10b or c at Darrington. David

Steve, that must have been your group I saw under the tarp on the trail on Sat. I was on my way out after climbing Coleman Headwall Fri and NR Sat. I overheard your group express satisfaction at the utility of the tarp that had just gone up, and we all got a good laugh. If I knew you were going in to climb the HW, I would have stopped to talk. David

Trip: Mt Buckner - North Face Date: 8/6/2010 Trip Report: I climbed the NF on 8/6. (Thanks to Jrace2's TR from 7/26 letting people know it was still in good shape.) The climb is still in good shape, continuous snow the whole way. The bergschrund is still easy to cross on the left. There was not a good freeze overnight, so snow a little soft, but still good climbing conditions. The snow at the narrow part where you traverse left was a bit rotten in places, suggesting it will soon melt out there. Good coverage on the SW descent route, meaning very little talus to walk. Gear Notes: One ice axe. Being unfamiliar with the route, I brought a second tool, but it was not needed. Crampons. Approach Notes: Camped at Sahale Glacier camp,and approached via Sahle-Boston traverse. No crevasse problems on the Boston Glacier. A very humanized marmot hangs around the first bivy spot at the Sahale camp. I left no food in camp and it still chewed up my pack hipbelt, probably going after the sweat.

I did it yesterday and just posted a TR.

Trip: Mt Baker - North Ridge Date: 7/31/2010 Trip Report: After climbing the Coleman Headwall Fri, I was met by DP to climb the NR on Sat. The snow was reasonably well frozen overnight. We took the low crossing of the Coleman, at about 6,500', then worked our way up to the west slope of the lower NR. No crevasse difficulties on the approach. There are several options to easily cross the schrund on the left side, and they appear to be good for a while. Climbed this 40 degree slope up and right to gain the ridge. Nothing came down from the rocks overhead while ascending this slope. The ice bulge is in nice shape, about a pitch and a half long and generally about 50 degrees, with some steeper steps, and easing up in slope towards the top. Above is a beautifully situated moderate snow arete that was a joy to climb. The summit cap is blocked by awesome-looking crevasses that are easily bypassed by traversing left along side them. More big smiles. Descended the standard route and hiked out in a pleasant light rain. Gear Notes: Two tools, 8.1mm half rope, 7 ice screws.

Trip: Mt Baker - Coleman Headwall Date: 7/30/2010 Trip Report: From camp at the edge of the Colman Glacier I took the high approach route, following the standard route up the right side of the glacier to 8,100', and then traversing with some elevation loss to below the Roman Nose and the up to the avy cone at the base of the climb. (The next day I took the low glacier crossing, about 6,500', to climb the N Ridge, and concluded this would have been a better approach to the headwall.) The snowpack froze well overnight making for good travel across the glacier, and there were no crevasse problems on the approach. I climbed the route on the left side of the center rock island (Beckey's route description, as opposed to Nelson's right side line). The lower part was glacier ice, generally about 50 degrees with some steeper short steps. This was followed by firn with ice bulges. At mid height the angle eases some and I traversed right around a crevasse. A second large crevasse was crossed on ice bridges, leading to the upper 45 degree snow slope and a cruise to the summit. Descended the standard route. While the sight of all the debris at the base of the climb is intimidating, nothing came down the entire climb. This climb is in good shape. Gear Notes: Two tools.

I'm looking for a partner for the North Ridge or the Colman Headwall. I'm available starting Thursday or after. I would be up for also doing N face of Shuksan. David, dmnich@gmail.com

Lost on Saturday; may be on the trail somewhere or the parking area by the old hotel. egaibrev found it and brought it out but somewhere on the way it fell off his pack. Thanks David dmnich@gmail.com

I lost my helmet. Darrington area. Please PM me if you found. Thanks!