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worldbfree

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Posts posted by worldbfree


  1. A friend & I climbed Infinite Bliss last weekend, which meant hours of double-rope rapping back to the base. I'd say 85% of the time the ropes got severely tangled somewhere along the way (I mean each individual rope getting tangled in itself, not the 2 ropes tangling together - although that happened too). Is this just a fact of life when it comes to double-rope raps? I don't have this problem with single ropes.

     

    Our method was to split up each rope into two separate coils, then throw the coils within a second or two of each other. Inevitably the rope ended tied up like a bird's nest, usually toward the bottom of the rap. Untangling the ropes probably cost us an hour total.

     

    Anybody have any techniques or suggestions to avoid this?


  2. I was down there in Ecuador 3 years ago. There are a couple of interesting climbs with some technical ice - Antisana might be the best. The others that are commonly climbed - Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, Cayembe - are basically long, Rainier-esque glacier slogs. Boring. But, depending on your goals and experience, it's a great place to get some exposure to high-altitude. I agree that the interesting climbing is to be found in Bolivia and elsewhere.


  3. i recently ordered an alien from rei.com, well after the recall announcement. i got it, and it was part of the defective batch. the CS person didn't seem too impressed when i told her they were still selling gear that could, um, create some minor problems in case of a fall. but i bet their lawyers would shriek.


  4. since you've got so much time, and since it sounds like you might actually want to enjoy the climb, you might consider switching to a different guide company.

     

    the first time i did rainier, i was new to mountaineering and had the misfortune of climbing with RMI. it was a terrible, grueling express trip - even though the weather was great and we made the summit, i still count it as one of the worst days of my life. the guides were screaming and cursing at the slower climbers in the group, basically trying to intimidate them into quitting so we could move faster. basically, RMI's modus operandi is to get you to the top and back, fast, and they don't give a shit if it's a pleasant experience.

     

    that might be changing now that there's competition on the mountain, but you might also want to check out alpine ascents international and the american alpine institute, who have a better reputation and (i think) are also leading trips there this year.

     


  5. I did the Beckey route 3 saturdays ago and would recommend that you either sleep in or get there superearly. We arrived at the notch at 11 a.m. and were able to get on the route immediately...but there was a logjam of four parties ahead of us. We avoided it thanks to our late start, but had we gotten there earlier it would've been a frustrating day.

     

    Getting a late start also let us be the last ones down the gully, which was quite comforting.

     

    If rapple grapple is the main rappel route, maybe you should consider a night clime.

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