bumbass

looking for a climbing partner. I can rope gun 11+. I can drive. I live in seattle. I'm planning on getting there around noon? so it's a little warmer? -ryan

anybody want to go to index (or, I'd settle for si)? I'm pretty open from this friday to monday. looking for an experienced and confidant partner. 5.10 and up.

I'm headed to Indian Creek from April 7-24(ish). anybody interested in going or able to meet up?

I found out, the hard way, that there is a wasp nest on sagitarius, at index. it's in the .75 camalot pocket after pulling the (11b) roof. nest can't be that big, but I sure got their feathers ruffled when I poked them with my caming unit. maybe the next person can "deal" with them.

One new wall and two new routes at index! also, one of the best approaches! the wall is called "the collegium" and it's located behind(west) of the flag pole on top of look out point. to access, hike to "private idaho" and keep hiking up the gulley until you reach the flag pole. once you're warmed up, hike about 3 minutes back into the woods, trending down hill heading northwest, towards the granite walls, following the faint trail, cross the dry wash and *bam* you're there. the two routes currently established are as follows, as refferenced by the picture. both routes have two bolt anchors with chains for lowering. if you want to make a day of it, you can continue traversing left(west) from the base of the collegium, for about 3min, and reach the base of "the beyond." "the first degree" (yellow line) 5.10c, 33m, trad, small nuts and double set of cams (blue metolius to #3 camalot and one(1) #4 camalot, (lots of long slings)) Steep and awesome route! kind of a "mirror image" of sagitarious, lots of lybacking and even a chimney! awesome crack!! note:the crack in the start slab is prone to clogging with pine needles, so be prepared "brain power" (red line) 5.10c, 33m, mixed, 9 bolts and 3 pieces of gear (#2, #3, #.5/.75 camlots). steep sport to moderate, left leaning, slab. cool quartz pockets, to mild chicken heads with a fun stemming/chimney finish.

found a wallet at index yesterday, june 8th. you tell me some unique features about it, and it's yours.

Trip: Alpine Lakes - Prusik Peak - South Face Date: 8/4/2007 Trip Report: friday night: stash two mountain bikes, 8 clif bars and 1 gallon of water at colchuck lake trail head. illegal bivy on unnamed road for a couple hours. staurday morning: 4:30am. park car at snow lake trail head. start walking up hill to prusik, send it in four pitches. find a trail up to assgard pass, pass one ranger, two mountain goats, one bald eagle and ALOT of humans. slide down assgard pass, around colchuck lake and run down final bit of trail. find bikes in good condition. find food bag torn open by some animal who slobbers. consume remaing contents. ride bikes down hill at blinding speed to car. touch car at 8:50pm, in the daylight. best day of my life.

...need to recreate. the last two times I went to index this year, I was planning on climbing all four pitches of the recently cleaned japanese gardens. the first day we encountered a large group of (five) moderate climbers using the mid anchors on the first pitch TRing through the chains. when we asked if we could climb through, they said they "would be done soon." the second day we saw an amazingly slow aid climbing party, doing their best to drop all of their gear, on what would prove to be a 5 hour ascent of the first 35 meters. (note: not the first time (uber-slow) aid climbers have been spotted on this classic free route) so what's a hard free climber to do? I don't like japanese's mid anchors becuase it encourages beginers (usually one's that don't know how to share) to clog the route all day. aid climbers? I've climbed past them before, that doesn't make them any happier. japanese is a key route to accessing the plethora of hard, recently scrubbed and rebolted routes on the upper ltw, as well as 10% and sterm farmer, yet it is plagued with these obstructions.. who gets priority with a route? we're americans right? so we have the (climbing)god-given right to climb what we want when we want right? I suggest the following heirarchy for those wanting to climb a route that has been free climbed(in descending order): -hard climber who can climb route blind-folded(w/o shirt of course) -moderately hard climber (working on blind-fold trick) -standard free climber, working route (not on TR) -beginer climber -mosquito -gnat -annoying barking dog of hard climber did anybody notice aid climbers didn't make it onto the list? I can respect that crazy sh@t you guys do, but go do it on an aid route huh? leave the free routes to the free climbers... any thoughts on the list?

talk talk talk... all I see is people whining about how the anchors are missing, there's no action, no one has replaced them. good for you. there are very much anchors that need to be chopped. short pitch on iron horse, TWO mid anchors on sag, thin fingers, japanese gardens and many more. the inital half of the mid anchor in question was to protect the free connection into TPMV, then some genious decided it'd make a good anchor for moderate. I know I worked hard, dogged, flailed and bought many belayers a lot of beer in my quest to climb harder routes. I've climbed the recently cleaned pitches of japanese, and they're awesome. they're even easier than the first pitch. they deffinately deserve more traffic. mid-anchors are for sport crags, not 30' up a splitter crack. ps, aid climbers should be kicked in the head when found aiding japanese gardens, or any other route that goes free on a regular basis.

I found your climbing shoes at little si sunday, july 23rd. name, make, model and they're yours(again). pm me here.