[[TR] Mt. Adams- Adams Glacier 7/2/2006]

Climb: Mt. Adams-Adams Glacier

 

Date of Climb: 7/2/2006

 

Trip Report:

I and three others (Bruce, Phil and Chris) took off from Seattle mid-day (where we picked up Phil and Chris - just in from MN and NY for the climb), and ended up at the Killen Creek trailhead around 5pm. After getting our gear ready, and chatting with a guy that had just done the climb earlier that day, we headed up the trail.

 

 

 

We didn't see much in the way of snow until we started getting close to the treeline. After that, there was quite a bit of snow, and a lot of post hole-ing, which slowed us down with our heavy packs.

 

 

 

It was just getting dark as we got to our planned camp site, right near lake 7505 at the foot of the glacier. Headlamps on, we set up camp and hit the sack; knowing we could sleep in, as we planned to rest the following day and scope out the mountain.

 

 

Waking the next morning, it was pretty warm at camp. I'd say it was in the 50's in the morning, and a beautiful clear day.

 

Our Camp

 

 

Lake 7505

 

 

A team of two skiers walked by camp that were heading up the North Ridge, and down the NFNWR. Sadly, we missed seeing them come down. Another team of four came by that were just going to climb the North Ridge for some reason (after coming down that thing, I can't imagine wanting to intentionally climb up it ). We did some more camp setup, broke out the sunscreen, then set out to go scope the glacier and get a rough route worked out. The glacier looked pretty good, but there was a lot of rock and icefall going on throughout the day. We knew we'd need to be on the route early, as warm as it was.

 

 

 

The actual route we took...

 

 

After a warm and sunny day (mid 70's or warmer), we made an attempt to hit the sack early, with plans to wake around 1am.

The alarm goes off at 1, which I quickly silence. Then just as quickly, I fall back asleep. 2:15am rolls around, and I awaken to Chris and Phil just rolling out of their tent. We get our stuff together, and we head out around 3. It was pretty warm - probably in the 40's. Heading out over the snow covered foot of the glacier, we saw quite a few small crevasses sooner than expected, all of which we were able to step, or leap over. No doubt we walked over some hidden crevasses on our traverse over to the right side of the glacier. In hindsight, we probably should have roped up earlier.

 

 

We rope up as we start to hit steeper terrain.

 

 

Snow conditions are inconsistent. There's a reasonable crust on some of it, but also a lot of really soft stuff. Our lead guy (Phil) is working really hard kicking steps. Boot steps from previous climbers had been pretty well melted out.

 

We go through a nice crevasse complex, that had a pretty good crossing point. Other crevasses we encounter have bridges, or are small enough to just step over. However, many were getting pretty thin.

 

 

 

After a while of that, a team of three comes up behind us in our steps. We're on the far right side of the glacier now, and rock/ice is really starting to rain down on us from the cliff band, and the serac complex just above it. The terrain is pretty steep under those cliffs (later confirmed with gps to be around 49 degrees). We let the other team pass us by, and kick steps for us instead, much to Phil's relief . We move as fast as we can to get past the rain of rock/ice. The sun was just starting to peak over the mountain, when a thin band of clouds moved in, shielding us and the mountain from further warming for a while. That was really welcome, as we were getting a little nervous about the snow getting any softer. Once we're clear of the fall path of the big serac complex on the upper right side of the glacier, we take a short break.

 

 

 

 

 

Phil, taking a much needed break from kicking steps

 

 

Then we, traverse left to around the center of the glacier, and go straight up a 40 degree slope, to a shallower slope just before the bergschrund.

 

 

 

We hung out there for a while, chatting with the team of three Russian-American guys. They planned to camp right there in front of the 'shrund (they were doing some acclimation for Aconcagua). After some chow and pleasantries, we head up one of two good size snow bridges going over the crevasse, and up onto the summit snowfield.

 

Hangin' at the bergschrund

 

The other climbing team (the three on the left - Bruce from our team on the right)

 

 

Just past the bergschrund, climbing up to the summit plateau

 

 

At this point, Chris peels off and heads for the top of the NR (he'd been having a back issue, and wasn't feeling too great at that point). Phil, Bruce and I set out for the summit. The snow was really soft up there, and we post holed a lot, even as we were coming up on the summit. We reach the summit in 40 minutes or so, and were greeted by a good sized group of skiers... and dogs. It was around 40 degrees at the summit, with some light clouds.

 

 

After a short stay, we head back down toward the NR, and start taking off gear

 

A couple of skiers coming up the NR, just as we're heading down

 

 

We didn't take too many pictures on the decent via the NR, because well, it sucked. Here's a couple of pictures that pretty much sum it up.

 

I hate the North Ridge. Call me a wimp, but that thing just freaked me out. I'm new at climbing, so that's a significant part of it, I'm sure. But it really is a bad downclimb. It's just a big pile of loose skree, with bad runout everywhere. We also lost the trail a couple of times, which didn't make it any easier. And we were out of water. And it was hot. There is one section about half way down where there is a little yellow flag propped up against a little rocky point. The trail looks like it continues on down the left side of the ridge, but don't go down there. Go up and over the rocks, right where the little yellow flag is. That's the right way .

 

At last, freedom from the skree...

 

Phil made it down the NR quicker than the rest of us, and caught this goat walking by camp!

 

We decide to stay the night, and hike out in the morning.

 

A little freeze dried blueberry cheesecake hits the spot for Phil...

 

And, we catch the obligatory alpenglow shot...

 

Tearing down camp the next morning

 

And, off we go

 

Phil and Bruce go for some boot skiing

 

While Chris and I opt for the glissade (not entirely intentional on my part )

 

A quick look back at the glacier

 

Quick break for some food and view

 

And, back at the trailhead.. only slightly sunburned

 

We ponder heading up to Rainier (our stretch goal for the week), but realize we don't have quite enough time to do it with other commitments we have. Next year...

 

Gear Notes:

ice axes, 60M rope, crampons, pickets (didn't use).

 

Approach Notes:

Came in through Randal, stopped at the ranger station, then used these roads to get to the trailhead:

 

23 to 21

21 to 56

56 to 5603

5603 to 2329

2329 past Keene's Horse Camp

[[TR] Mt Adams- Adams Glacier 6/19/2006]

Thanks for the report; sounds like it was a great climb. What time did you leave camp for the summit?

[Adams Glacier Route - why not descend the Glacier?]

Thanks folks, great info. I'll definitely take a second axe with me.

[Adams Glacier Route - why not descend the Glacier?]

I've been trying to gather all of the info I can for Adams - Adams Glacier route, and have noticed that in every trip report I've read so far, folks seem to descend via North Ridge or some other route. Can I presume that even with a good early alpine start, it's not very safe coming back down the Glacier? Also, there seem to be somewhat mixed impressions on the difficulty of this route. summitpost rates it a 2 - straightforward glacier travel. One book I have (Falcon - Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes), rates it a 4.. more difficult than they rate Rainier Liberty Ridge?!?! I've seen some folks reporting two tool sort of climbing at times. I'm not sure if that was optional playing around in crevases, or required stuff. Any clarification appreciated. Should I be carrying an extra axe?

 

Oh, and any recent info about the state of the route (or just recent pictures of the Glacier) is definitely welcome. I'll reciprocate with a good trip report after I attempt this route with a team of four on the weekend of July 1st.

 

-James