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billbob

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Posts posted by billbob


  1. Haireball?

     

    No camping permit needed after Monday night, I was thinking to walk up Tues for a night or two. Never actually been up to the enchantment lakes. Live in Eburg for the past couple years, am more familiar with Ingalls area/south side trails but have been to Colchuck in past. Was thinking to head up ingalls to crystal creek to the lakes... My gear is good and I'm fine w/ crappy weather. I'm hoping you have a comment here..

     

    Bill


  2. All,

     

    Please see the below email from Sharp End Books:

     

     

    Hey Bill,

     

    Your book got a great endorsement from OMC in Portland! If you know Bennett Frazier buy him a beer.

     

    REI is still considering the book. We're having a phone conference with our buyer to understand what their reluctance has been. We're pretty baffled. It would be helpful if REI customers, (AKA your friends), would go to their local REI and ask staff about the book. If they're getting requests from customers, it could help persuade them. Many publishers have had some frustrating experiences with REI picking up quality books. Their book stance has changed lately and we're all shaking our heads.

     

    The REI event scheduler is going to propose some dates about 6 weeks out. They want to allot enough time to promote.

     

    Bennett at OMC recommended Base Camp Brewery for an event. If we do an event, I'll like to try and coordinate with the attendance of some of the contributors. Can you send me emails so that we can reach out?

     

    Let's keep in touch,

     

    Heidi

     

    Heidi Knapp, Co-Owner

    Sharp End Publishing

    PO Box 1613

    Boulder, CO 80306

    tel: 303-444-2698

    heidi@sharpendbooks.com

    www.sharpendbooks.com

     

     

     


  3. Wayne,

     

    Sorry about the photo errors, I will make corrections in the next printing.

     

    Didn't mention the NF rap, no second confirmation... will definitely add it if anyone would id the position and condition of the bolt. Pics?

     

    Castle Crags route was not included, couldn't find a second climber to recommend it. Interviewed a guy who fell on it. If anyone wants to own this route description please contact me in the next 30 days or so.

     

    You mention Tim Olson. Where in the world is Tim Olson?! Best graphics designer ever, he needs to be paid... along with John Scurlock for his amazing photography. Haven't heard yet from the publisher how sales are going. REI Portland wants to do book signings last Friday of Aug and/or first Friday of Sept.

     

    Everyone and anyone is invited to pm me anytime. Comments, complaints, suggestions, whatever. The idea is to create a better climbing guide by and for the climbers of Mt Hood. Updates, improvements, and corrections are scheduled approximately every six months.

     

    Kind Regards,

     

    Bill


  4. It has been a bit epic getting the book out (over five years and copious amounts of BS&T)but the pre-print edits are done and little stands between the glorious day when The Mt Hood Climbing Guide will adorn the shelves of retail outlets everywhere.

     

    The publisher, Sharp End Books, emailed last week that the printer wants the book by mid-May. It takes but a couple short weeks to complete this final step.

     

    I want to apologize to everyone for the delay. Not that it really matters at this point, but contributing causes include death, incarceration and just plain disappearance of key contributors. Since beginning the project I have been divorced, laid off/screwed over, sued by the ex, watched my daughter carried off to the middle east, got married, relocated to Houston, worked for a failed startup, relocated back to the PNW, lived in a tent all last summer, and finally moved to Ellensburg last fall. Life is challenging for pretty much everyone these days and I know I'm just whining, but the last five years have been rough and there have been many times when I just couldn't bring myself to write. Compared to others perhaps I'm a pussy, that's OK by this old boy, but I hate to give up on anything. This book has been both a blessing and curse, thus far mostly the latter. But I'm glad it's done now and I really, really hope you like it. Thanks to everyone involved, emails will go out to the many contributors as soon as the printing is done.

     

    Kind Regards,

     

    Bill Mullee


  5. The Pumpkin Man struck again last weekend at the University of Montana...

     

    Every year some idiot climbs to the top of the University of Montana admin bldg and places a pumpkin on the spike. This year a Portland native was the "helper & belayer" and was chosen to be the Pumpkin Man for next year. He said yesterday he was "scared shitless" they would get caught, not so worried about falling.

     

    The video attached is from last year. By tradition the climber is changed every year but last weekend the new guy didn't show. It was left to last years' climber (see video) and and the new belayer to carry on.

     

    My son had nothing to do with this and you can't prove it.

     

    Pumpkin Man


  6. At last count there are 56 individual contributors to the guide and another couple dozen who have helped in some form or fashion. I have met and interviewed over a hundred others who work on or around the mountain, from snow cat drivers to ski patrol guys to forest service folk. Three freaking years and about ten grand from my pocket. Thank you Tim Olson, Wayne Wallace, John Scurlock, Jim Wickwire, Fred Beckey, Rodney Sofich, Pete Keane, Zac Reisner, Eric Linthwaite, Laura Freeman, Chad Anderson, Sarah Bradham, Alan Reaume, Rocky Henderson, Scott Norton, Oleg Valarmov, Bill Amos, Steve Kruse, Kathleen Walker, Steve Rollins, Chris Winter, Anastasia Blagoveschenskaya, and of course thank you Cascade Climbers.

     

    Profit from the sales will be distributed by the Mt Hood Climbers Guide LLC accordingly:

    10% to a fund for SAR people killed or injured while training or on mission;

    10% to the Tilly Jane Hut restoration so long as climbers are allowed use thereof;

    30% to pay climbers to climb and report on routes of interest to the company that are related to the next Mt X Climbers Guide;

    20% to pay existing contributors for their work thus far; and

    30% to pay expenses and costs of the company.

     

    If successful this will be the start of a business by and for the PNW climbing community. Your comments will be greatly appreciated. Thank you all.

     

    Bill Mullee

     

     

     


  7. The publisher is formatting pages whilst I still hope to find someone with recent climbing pics on the Eliot HW route. Absent that hero (Doug Beardsley where are you?) the book will not include that route and we will go to press when the publisher is ready.


  8. The delays have been frustrating for many and I apologize for that to all parties. That said, Fred Knapp at Sharp End Books is fully engaged and we are working hard on the final edit and photo placement. Fred says the book will be out sometime in the spring.

     

    We are finding that many of our existing climbing pics are too small for printing. If anyone has good digital pics (4 meg or larger) on Mt Hood please email them to bmullee@gmail.com. All photographers are credited, climbers are named if known. Mostly needed are climbing pics on the Coe gl., Eliot HW, Sandy HW. If you have great pics on other routes send also. Please? Like now?!

     

    Thanks to all the outstanding folks who have submitted written and photo pieces.

     

    Bill


  9. Didja know that if your synthetic clothing catches fire it will stick to your skin as it continues to burn? Yup.

    The ER doc tried using a scalpel to get the melted stuff out but called it off after an hour. Plastic and skin were fused into a strange and ugly substance. Apparently it is just better to wrap it all up and wait, scrub daily to avoid infection.

     

     

    burn_hand-2_Feb4_2011.jpg


  10. Hey Russ,

     

    Thank you for your update on the TJ Hut, was wondering what had brought about the recent changes. Anyone visiting over the past few years could see the need for repairs. Maybe the climbing community will want to help beyond the volunteer efforts of guys like Zac Reisner. I will contact you tomorrow.

     

    Bill


  11. The Mt Hood Climbers Guide wants your climbing pics before we go to the publisher. We will give credit and all contributors receive at least a free copy. Just trying to put out a really nice climbing guide. Hoping to do the next one in a more timely fashion, the first time is always the hardest.

     

    This photo is mine, wanted to share. PM me for the high-res version.

    SW_Best.jpg

     

     


  12. Aerogel is about the lightest and most thermally efficient insulation material known to man. It is a highly porous form of pure silica that weighs little more than air, but I thought it was structurally pretty weak. How do you not crush them?

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