Good2Go
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Posts posted by Good2Go
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Upper N Ridge w/ glacier approach = need both. Direct/Complete N Ridge = don't need either. You can get water at the base of the N ridge and there was water running off the snow patch just below the summit on Sat afternoon too. Have fun up there!
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That's fast for an onsight, well done!
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Jason Hummel and crew did a circumnavigation of Rainier last week and got some great shots of Liberty Ridge: http://www.myadventurecrusade.com/2018/04/29/mount-rainier-ski-circumnavigation/
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I'd been wanting to ski the W Ridge notch couloir on Stu for several years, but could never get anybody interested in doing it over Ulrichs. I decided last year that I'd better get the FD before someone beat me to it, even if I had to go solo. Then I learned I'd been scooped when I saw the posting about it on Lowell's FD site. Great eye and nice style getting it from the summit!
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There's still a huge patch of snow on the false summit, so you can get water there if you bring a stove. Personally, I wouldn't bring a stove, unless you are bivying on route (and I wouldn't do that, so never a stove I say). Drink one and grab a couple liters to go at the bottom and then bang it out. And while you're doing the death march back to your car, contemplate that Colin Haley and partner did this route c-to-c in under 7 hours:
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Cascadian is in great shape. Sherpa isn't. There's running water around the base of the NR. There is still a big patch of snow on the false summit, which is hard to bypass in the dark. We went left. That's all I got (from last wknd).
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Great TR and pics. It's such a fun loop. Now go get the N Ridge, if you haven't yet.
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As in Leavenworth 5.9 == Index 5.7 or Castle Rock 5.9?No need to worry, P3 is still Leavenworth 5.9.I climbed it on Saturday and could not tell what was different. I took this pic from the start of the traverse (which is still 5.9, even on the Index scale). Maybe somebody has a "before pic" from the same spot?
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Nick Elson, Colin Haley, and Eric Carter just did Liberty in 9.11.
The Dorais bros came in the next week and lowered it to 7hrs and change.
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I heard it's now a 5.11+ deadpoint to a sloping hold that you have to lock off on. To all those thinking of climbing outer space this weekend take note!
Ha! I remember talking to you about you soloing it and we both agreed those flakes were the sketchiest aspect. Easy enough still for you to lap it cordless?
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Holy shit! Traversing into that flake was THE move of the route. How much harder is it now (i.e., in comparison to a SCW 5.10 like Iconoclast)? Could mean the end of the most popular "easy" multi pitch in WA.
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Price of Complacency and Stress Management were on the column that fell. It also apparently smashed the block at the base of Thriller Pillar.
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$600?!? I've got a fairly pristine copy of that book that I'd sell for a much more reasonable sum, if anybody wants it.
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Great job making it happen w/ all the complications. I'd probably have bailed when I discovered the missing climbing shoe. The Sherpa glacier descent is always out of shape by this time of year. It's doable, but definitely more involved, slower and far more hazardous (this time of year) than walking down the Cascadian. The FKT for the CNR was set last year (6:45!) from the south, because it's way faster.
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Regarding the descent, if you find yourself 15 mins or more away from the Long's Pass trail junction when you hit Ingalls Creek Trail, you probably did not descend the Cascadian proper. It's easy to miss the Cascadian turnoff and continue down the south shoulder, which often has a better trail at that elevation.
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Amazing climbing and great vid! When's he gonna finally put City Park to bed?
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Rapped down Heavens Gate last Sat and noticed that there were parallel bolts about 3 feet apart at the top of the crux roof at the start of the 2nd pitch. Hard to understand how they would both be needed for protecting that spot. Didn't take a pic unfortunately, but I've climbed the route and rapped down it several times, and don't remember seeing such weirdness before. Anybody have a clue if that's how it's always been or a new bolt was added? I'm not a bolt hater (or chopper), but seems like clipping both bolts would cause drag, and the presence of the 2nd would be confusing for an onsight.
Also, thanks to whoever replaced the sketchy anchor bolts on DHLA!
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The bench camp spring was running nicely two weeks ago. There was also plenty of running water on the north side of the col, if you're heading that way.
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Thanks for the beta! I did Rebel Yell in September '13. We brought axes and crossed a couple hard snow fields, taking the most direct route to the base. Did not appear they could be easily avoided without some techy scrambling and loss of elevation. There was also water available on that side, on that trip.
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Did you do Rebel Yell? If so, still any mandatory snow left to cross to get to the base?
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Good beta! John's pointing at the descent in this pic.
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Great pics of an awesome route!
Having done it both ways, the down climb at the finish is much easier on the opposite side (i.e., left side of the fin). Also, if there is no snow, you can easily descend the gully immediately above the finish (i.e., climb up toward the top of the plateau about 50' and then scramble right and down into the gully). There is a ledge system in that gully that takes you directly back to the slabby waterfall area just above the base of the climb. Here are a couple pics:
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Plenty of bivy sites up there, but folks rarely bother, due to the close proximity of the road. Water is available at the creek at the junction where the trail splits from the main Blue Lake trail toward the spires. Not much up higher around NEWS or SEWS, but you may be able to find a spring if you hunt long enough.
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Most people nowadays link up the W Face of NEWS w/ the NW Corner, which IMO is what gives it the classic status. Kinda short for a full day objective though. Try the DEB on SEWS next time you're up there. It's got a great alpine vibe and nice long pitches, especially if you link them up.
[TR] Washington Pass, Liberty Bell - Thin Red Line 09/01/2018
in North Cascades
Posted
Nice work! I got a pic of you guys up there that Saturday, on the way over to Lexington.