tsmart

Thanks, that's helpful. I assumed Boston Basin permits would be hard even midweek, so that's why I was planning to pick them up early. Sounds like I don't need to worry about that.

I'm taking an Advanced Alpine Mountaineering course from Mountain Madness in August, and after the conclusion of the course I'm going to do some independent climbing with a friend Mon-Thu the last week in August. I'd be interested in route ideas. I took the 13-day intro course from MM last year, and have been leading moderate rock routes (to 5.6-5.7, with sandbagged reputations) at my local crag this year (Devil's Lake, WI). My initial itinerary is as follows, but I have some concerns as noted: Mon: Apply for Boston Basin permit for Tues, and spend the day climbing at Washington Pass; probably Beckey Route on Liberty Bell or North Face of Concord. Tue: Hike nto BB and climb Sharfin. CONCERN - I know some climbers have died from rockfall decending from the notch. I need some beta on how to get to/from the base of Sharkfin safely. Wed: Forbidden West Ridge. CONCERN - Will the 'shrund be too difficult to cross? If I can get across, can I climb the face to the left of the (assumed) melted out gully? Can I decend this face on the return trip? Can I do it with a single rope? Will I need pickets? Screws? Obviiously I have some questions about this route. Thu: Weather day, or more Washington Pass climbing. Other climbs have made my list of possibilities as well, such as Stuart West Ridge (seems pretty straightforward), Prusik Peak (how do you get permits, and what would be my bail-out plan if they aren't available), and climbs in the Wine Spires. I have Beckey's guides, but they don't always give me the information I'm looking for. So...any ideas on my tentative itinerary, or other suggestions? Thanks

I'm planning a Rainier trip, probably via Emmons, starting either August 8th or August 9th. I'm planning 4 days on the mountain. I'm a beginning climber, but am taking a 13-day Alpine Mountaineering course with Mountain Madness in June. I'd like to use those skills on this self-guided Rainier climb, and need a couple of similar-minded partners. Unfortunately, my climbing dates are not flexible. Let me know if you are interested.

Okay, thanks all. I'll skip the insulated pants, although salty chocolate balls do hold some appeal.... I didn't realize Shoeller and hard shells were mutually excusive. I was figuring Shoeller for most stuff, but hard shell for really nasty weather.

I'm considering adding some insulated pants to my climbing kit for Cascades climbs this summer, including Rainier in August. It seems something like Patagonia Micro Puff pants would fit into my kit, but I wanted some input. My sleeping bag is a down MH Comet, rated to 30 degrees F - perhaps a little cold. But I also have their bivy sack that zips onto the bag for a few more degrees of warmth, and to bring during peak attempts for unexpected bivies. Still, my bag may not be warm enough even with the bivy, and I may want some warm clothes to go with it. The rest of the kit includes midweight synthetic base layer top and bottom, synthetic midweight top, Shoeller pants, Shoeller jacket, Patagonia Micro Puff pullover top, storm jacket and storm pants. I have no midlayer bottoms. The attraction to the Micro Puff (or MH Chugach) pants is that they have full zippers, and I'm pretty sure they would satisfy my insulating needs during any situation. And the Micro Puff is only 15 ounces. But they may be overkill. Would I be warm enough with a pair of non-zip fleece pants for a third the cost? Also, would the Micro Puff top satisfy the "parka" requirement I see on most Rainier gear lists? Thanks.

Thanks, Gene. Can you clarify what you mean by "latter portion summit climbs?"

Okay thanks, that helps.

I'm taking a 13-day Alpine Mountaineering class with Mountain Madness in June. I'd like to follow up by doing a self-guided climb the second week of August, preferably a 4-day Rainier attempt. The chief guide thinks the class is adequate preparation. Do you agree? Any route recommendations? Any leads on finding partners?