maxhasson
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Posts posted by maxhasson
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Ivan, nice work finding a way to make me look stupid. Just can't win on this forum. Of course I meant that making a belay safe (from reading the above posts it looks like just one or two out of five) was more acceptable than a rappel station every 50-60 meters. Not sure why I'm bothering to explain myself, just wanted to let you know that you were being a dick.
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As everyone has said, great thread. Haven't heard much about this route on the interweb, it's rad to hear about it direct from one half of the first ascent team. It is of course a shame that we can't get the input of Boving himself.
While I suppose if anyone has the "right" (according to our not very official set of rules, I'd like them to stay unofficial myself) to add bolts to the route Matt does, I definitely don't feel totally comfortable with the idea. If the choice was mine I'd rather see them only at belays and not on lead.
As for the rap route, I am very much opposed, I understand the concept and know that if you don't find the way that part of the mountain could be very trying. I can't say that the traverse into Dragonscar is guaranteed to be simple but we did find an enjoyable scramble above the end of our route. Hopefully this thread inspires some ascents and those parties can investigate the link.
Do what feels right to you Matt, ultimately it's your choice, but thanks anyway for being open to input, I for one appreciate it.
-max
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View of the fire from CBR on Friday. Saw flames occasionally but mostly smoke. Didn't see any low flying aircraft or FS personnel.
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Rad. Awesome job going for the scar, looks like great rock.
Pretty wild how many routes are going up on this face in the last couple years considering the lack of activity between the West Face and the Tempest, something like twenty years between them if I remember right.
I better go up there and get some before it's too late.
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So sick dudes!
Great work on a sick route on a rad peak in a beautiful place!
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Hell yeah Mikey, nice work wrapping up a lofty goal. These TRs definitely get me psyched to get on the upper wall. Hope to run into you out here soon and talk about some local mountain climbing...
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Oh, and here's where to see some sick shots of Mike and Kate crushing, courtesy of Tim Matsui: http://timmatsui.com/blog/2008/09/climbing-photography-redux-the-thin-red-line/
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Sol following P2
following P4
Sol leading P5
Cumbre
All photos except for the summit shot in the dark are from our recon trip. Hauled the camera up last week but was a little too focused on the climbing. Sol's 'keg stand' of inspiration ranks high among the raddest feats of climbing I've witnessed. After three heart wrenching goes following the sixth pitch he somehow found the energy to pull it off and I almost cried. Interesting to see your grading breakdown Mikey, I hear you on the difficulty of rating stuff, definitely some reachy moves on that route, at least the way I did it. Double toe hooks on the roof pitch sound familiar? Excellent work on the Upper Wall by the way, hit me up if you're in the neighbourhood, we should go to the Drip Wall. Linking the last two pitches to M&M is definitely not the way but is a great challenge, the last couple feet to the ledge were intense to say the least. WA Pass is an amazing place.
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Found one wallet belonging to a Daniel C., with an out of state license. No number to call, I'll wait a week or so and then either send it to the address or hand it over to the authorities. Hope I can hook it up, sucks to lose a wallet.
-maxhasson(atgmaildotcom)
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Index was dry today, probably tomorrow too...
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DCramer- Yah, we climbed at the wall hi lighted in Smoot's guide, it's got 50 or so routes I think? The book also claims that the area sports 500+ routes so some of the other cliffs must be decent. Some high quality rock for sure, as well as some classic coulee choss. Many of the climbs just need more traffic, we spotted maybe one chalked hold but overall the climbing related impact was nil. Some of the anchors were simple but most were kind of involved. I used one end of the rope to equalize a couple really spread out anchors and still had enough rope left to set up a TR. So bring an old rope or lots of cord/webbing. It's kind of nice to set up several ropes at once so the more gear you bring the better. It seems like it would be a long drive from Seattle but it's not too bad for east siders as a good alternative to Vantage.
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Did I miss something or has no one mentioned the
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I drove up the canyon on Wednesday, turned around at Barney's Rubble due to fog and darkness. Careno Left is pretty much gone, Right has been reduced to a single, sad looking pillar. Last night was sort of chilly but probably far from what we need for ice. Personally I'm hoping for a mild February and an early rock climbing season.
In a strange turn of events we headed west to escape the shitty weather and had two awesome days at Index...
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Has anyone taken a look at Mountaineers Creek ice lately? Seems like the last update was at least a few weeks ago. Rain and high 30s in the forecast...
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Jens (H.) and I climbed at the (Second?) Millennium Wall today. Several variations are possible, maybe 7-9, Jens led the obvious thick pillar and then we toproped 3 paths to the right. Beautiful day, Snow Creek Wall is far from in shape but it was a little colder. Looks like maybe one more cold day and then a steady rise in temperature. Guidebook claims 30-40 ft but it was almost exactly a half ropelength (100 ft) to the first sturdy tree. Is it just me or do ice climbs seem a lot longer once you're actually on them?
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that's a great deal...
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I'm hopping on the bandwagon, check it out if you're bored. Probably too much bouldering for cc.com but there should be some real climbing on there too.
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Didn't Croft run up Outer Space on his way out? Maybe just a myth, pretty badass warm down though...
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Leavenworth slideshow was a great success, thanks so much to everyone who made it and contributed to the fun and the funds. We raised 300 bucks, a relatively modest sum but an excellent start. Hopefully, with our newly gained experience, we can deliver an even better show in Redmond. Beer to be supplied by Mac&Jacks, raffle is looking stacked, don't miss it!
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Just want to give more props to Jens and Sol, I had a pretty good view of their effort and I could tell they were giving it 110 percent. Very inspiring.
For me this was my most intense photographic experience, Ryan and I climbed some pretty obscure choss and I still find it hard to believe we found the top of the route. I'm thankful to have badass climbers for friends, makes getting the money shot just a little bit easier...
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Awesome! I can't wait to get up there, looks like a rad line.
CC.com 2011 Photo Contest presented by AAI
in Climber's Board
Posted
Great stuff everybody! Photo threads are the best, and this one has prizes, yeah!
Alpine - Jens Holsten on Let it Burn, CBR
Cragging - Jessica Campbell on Liquid Nitrogen, Leavenworth
Scenic - Dragontail Peak
Bouldering - Geoff Cecil in the Swiftwater Cave, Leavenworth
Humor - Ginnie Jo Blue gets goofy high on the Upper Wall, Index