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Posts posted by mythosgrl

  1. sometimes the thing you want most is not the best thing for you. ie: having sex with whomever you want when you are married. Our ego must control our id otherwise things get messy. So maybe it's natural to have those urges to sleep with multiple people, but is it beneficial or wise? Will you be hurting people around you, like your kids or people who love you?


    I think the urge to sleep with whoever you'd like to is nautral, however the thing that separates us from animals is that we can weigh the consequences of that action and adjust our behavior accordingly.



    Serial monogamy (having multipled partners during a lifespan but only one at a time) is practiced in our culture. It's interesting to think about- could that look like a polygamous life as a whole to others?


    It is apparent to me that climbers are generally the hard science type. Many people I meet or climb with are some flavor of engineer, physicist, chemist or biologist. It'll be interesting to see whether this thread agrees...



    I'm a almost done with my undergrad in Pre-physical therapy.

    I have noticed that many climbers are into science, as well. Climbers are typically pretty smart people.


    Maybe science people are into climbing because it involves paying attention to details? Also, most people at Western WA Univeristy who are science majors are also the ones in the best shape. Maybe because they enjoy the outside (and are studying it) so naturally they go outside, exercise, and enjoy it. So precision, detailed work, love for the outdoors and healthy people mean potential for good rock climber?


    Just some thoughts on that..

  3. I use mainly the BHGS (Blake Herrington Guide Service). However, when I was 18 I climbed Mt. Rainier with my dad and we used RMI (i am embarassed to admit that now that I know how to do all that stuff we paid them to do for us). Our guide was really knowledgeable and had climbed all over the world. We had a great time. :tup:


    Note: Boundry Bay has great food, but their beer selection is limited (no light beers) and makes you fart alot.


    I have not had that experience with their beer... maybe it depends how much you drink of it.


    My vote for breakfast is Old Town Cafe as well. Little Cheerful is good, but I think their hash browns are tasteless and dry. Everything else is good there.


    You can't beat a Casa Que Pasa potato burrito!

  5. oh man. This is always my problem. I'm 5'8'' and wear size xs or small. As blake said, not REI, mountain hardware, and also not duofold (however- i have noticed it's the short sleeved shirts that don't fit. Long sleeved shirts are fine).I have a Marmot precip jacket that fits me fine length-wise. Prana is also too short (which is a bummer cuz they have really cute clothes).


    Patagonia fits me the best out of any brand i have found.


    Good luck with your hunt.

  6. Blake, Allison, Lisa, Brendan and I we went to Ozone Saturday. It's fun not knowing grades or beta - you just see a line and start up it. We had sun all day and great views of Stuart dusted in snow. There were wasps everywhere, but they were pretty mellow and never stung anyone. We did skip one route with a large wasp nest in a key flake. A highlight was leading an orange slab/arete route with great views just as the sun's last rays swept up the wall. Blake and Allison may have some pics. Thanks for a great day guys!


    On Sunday Michael, Luke, Allison, and Lisa and I went up to the Sam's hill area. We did Ski Track cracks, Oprah's navel, a 165ft 5.10 slab/overlap left of ON (Up zone?), a 5.6 flake route, and a 5.9 crack/face to the right. All were fun. A few of those could use chains instead of rap rings + faded slings in a death triangle. A shorter day, due to late start and early departure, but still fun.


    Here are some pics...



    Blake was batting the wasps away with a stick. Eventually he put the stick in his mouth and would get them out of the crack that way.



    Lisa_D on a climb at the Ozone wall



    Rad leading a climb at Ozone Wall



    Lisa on Ski track Cracks



    Me leading Sam and Cams



  7. If you are thinking about marrying someone, live with them for at least one year in the same dwelling before you get married. That way you learn much more about the person, the choices they make, and their values.


    Here are some stats for those of you who think that living together before marriage is good and like a test-run of marriage...


    Those who live together before marriage have higher separation and divorce rates.

    Psychology Today reported the findings of Yale University sociologist Neil Bennett that cohabiting women were 80% more likely to separate or divorce than were women who had not lived with their spouses before marriage. The National Survey of Families and Households indicates that "unions begun by cohabitation are almost twice as likely to dissolve within 10 years compared to all first marriages: 57% to 30%." Another five-year study by William Axinn of the University of Chicago of 800 couples reported in the Journal of Demography that those who cohabit are the most accepting of divorce. In a Canadian study at the University of Western Ontario, sociologists found a direct relationship between cohabitation and divorce when investigating over 8,000 ever-married men and women (Hall and Zhoa 1995:421-427). It was determined that living in a non-marital union "has a direct negative impact on subsequent marital stability," perhaps because living in such a union "undermines the legitimacy of formal marriage" and so "reduces commitment of marriage."


    Those who live together before marriage have unhappier marriages. A study by the National Council on Family Relations of 309 newlyweds found that those who cohabited first were less happy in marriage. Women complained about the quality of communication after the wedding.

  8. Judges are smart people.



    I'd bet you a lot of money that Blake is smarter than this guy was. Unfortunately for Blake, though, that did not matter in this case. The only thing the judge had on him was his level of authority- and used it to screw him.


    In a court of law, authority > level of intelligence


    Edited to add: Obviously hindsight shows that trying to justify the action in court was stupid and not particularly productive.

  9. NCascadesRanger- isn't $250 a rediculous amount of money to pay for a fine for such a small offense? If I had your job I would be outraged that a judge was charging a college student that much money when he had already learned his lesson.

  10. Trip: Pasayten Wilderness - Cathedral, Amphitheater, Unauthorized Squirrel


    Date: 9/9/2007


    Trip Report:

    On September 9th, Blake Herrington and I headed out on our ~11 mile approach... not the 18 mile approach from Winthrop. *Thanks Darin Berdinka for the approach info!*


    Blake and I thought this tundra-ish landscape looked more like a moonscape!



    On the otherside of this we encountered the famous swath




    We set up camp. As you can see, our approaches were quite short



    The next morning we decided to do Darin's climb on Ka'Aba (Pilgrimage to Mecca). We highly recommend this climb. Every pitch (except maybe the last one... but we think we may have been off route) was stellar. This is Blake doing his Blue Steel look on pitch 2




    Me on pitch 3- thorougly enjoying the finger cracks with great lock offs.




    Once we got to the top we hiked to the very top of amphitheater. Looks like there's good bouldering up there. (this is actually the summit!)




    The next day we climbed Cathedral Peak on the super-deluxe Southeast Buttress.




    Great route again. This is the first pitch, starting on top a block of rock 150' up the gulley between Cathedral and Monk.



    We both enjoyed pitch 3, which is a nice clean crack, and the two pitches on the head wall were great, with a scary ledge belay in between


    - a 5.8 very exposed pitch on the headwall




    and the 10.a finger crack that follows it was fun. Instead of doing the 5.9 offwidth we chose the finger crack. It is to the right of the offwidth about 2 feet.


    Finally, after a lazy morning of lounging, eating, and photographing the goats that wandered into our campsite,



    we decided to get after a line on the Minaret that we had our eye on ever since we got to camp. We followed the crack system all the way up. (4 pitches, some great, some too mossy)







    At the top of the minaret on bonus pitch #5 (exposed walk to Amphitheater's top)



    The rock was excellent and the weather was perfect. Say hi to our goats if you go out there.




    Gear Notes:

    Single cam rack up to #4 Cam. 3 hexes. Nuts. Sausage. Cheese, lots of butter.


    Approach Notes:

    Thanks to Darin we didn't have to hike 18 miles in from Winthrop