dooley
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Posts posted by dooley
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Its always a slow day up here in the Yukon.
Great trip report and very inspiring.
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That even looks a little more sensible. When I got on it, was completely formed like the mushrooms that are on the right side 3/4 the way up. Then the upper curtain looked fairly similar, vertical and solid 5. Believe it all depends on if the flow on the right that forms the mushrooms is frozen quickly or keeps spraying. There was some partial spray. Good fun to make it to that portion of the climb, turn the corner and that is what you see. Such a great climb.
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Man Loose Lady looks completely different then when I got on it about three years ago. The upper pitch was all wind blown mushrooms to the upper section where it was solid WI5. The mushrooms was by far the "headiest" lead I had ever been on cause I had to keep looking for pro and always thought about the mushrooms exploding.
I can also see why you were concerned about the lake.
Great TR and pics!
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No worries Quarryograher, I understood your process. Just was a lot to process in the ol' mental image.
I find it surprising that for all the over hanging bolted sport routes out there that it is next to impossible to find the process in how it was/is done. I think of routes that are bolted and never been sent and wonder how the hell did the botls get set if you cant aid the line. Seems I am starting to understand the process a little more.
As I said first, long time lurker and never post as normally someone else has equal or better information then myself. But this is a topic that I dont believe I have ever seen discussed. Even though I have tecnically moved out of the Pacific northwest, I still love this site. I am however now closer to Alaska then when I lived in Squamish!
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Well if I can get half of the process out of it I should be able to at least get a couple of bolts in
Thanks for all your help folks. Look out over hangings, your time of never being caressed by human hands is numbered!
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The wall is about 50 degree over hang and it isnt pocketed limestone. Mostly slopers and crimpers.
The wall is located in the Yukon on a mountain of limestone that if it was in the south (as in south of the 60th parallel) it would have hundreds of routes already. But since there is only a dozen or so full time climbers here it is untouched except for 15 routes or so on a short vertical wall. I just relocated from Squamish and this place is like a play ground if you have the drive to put up new routes.
I thought of using aid but hooking up a steep overhanging would make for an interesting day.
Ab blaster here I come!
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I was thinking two ropes. Clipped into the tensioned line to keep me into the wall and another rope for me to move on. Will post up the wall the next time I head out.
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I am thinking a little more about the tension line. Dropping a static line, tying off at the base to an anchor with alot of tension, then I can use ascenders to make my way up at least to drill the first bolts.
Never seen that willy stick before. Pretty cool but I can imagine dropping a load if you go for the windshield wiper!
Thanks for the info guys. If anyone has picture of their set up for bolting overhanging routes feel free to post. We all love pictures after all!
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Long time lurker, very seldom poster.
Looking for info on how to bolt overhanging lines that will be projects. It is limestone if that helps. I have searched this site and the internet and can not come up with anything that will tell me how to. Looking for direction as I am sure a few here have done it.
Can possibly rap into the wall but then I am hanging out from the wall by "x" number of feet. I have thought of rapping and having a friend at the base pull me in but have not tried. Advice would be appreciated as I have bolted vertical walls but not overhanging.
Thanks
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Is it key access for the gate or is it normally open?
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At 10 weeks old the pup is not goin to be able to go more then an hour in deep snow....maybe even shorter. I have a 2 year old Siberian Husky and she was 6 months before she could hold her own in deep snow.
And trust me, that dog is to snow as a fish to water. It is so much fun to watch a dog bred for snow play in it.
Enjoy
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Lookin for a partner in crime for Sunday the 16th. I am based out of North Vancouver so thinkin the Duffy for a quick hit.
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Is the beacon still available?
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I have been wanting to go to a BCMC social. I unfortunately work at 3:30pm during the week. I may have to take a day off and go anyway!
Thanks for the suggestion!
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I know that people based in Vancouver climb ice....so does everyone have a partner?
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I moved to the North Shore not to long ago and I am looking for a ice partner. I have gear but no car. No problem splitting in on gas! I can climb in the week, early as I work at 3:30, and any weekend. I have ample rock and ice experience.
Thanks
'13/'14 season stoke
in Ice Climbing Forum
Posted · Edited by dooley
Here in the Yukon ice has been in for a couple of weeks. The left is Funga Phobia and the right is Allens Pillar. Picture taken yesterday.
Not sure how to embed the photo in the post.