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robotslave

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    Madrona, USA

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  1. if these are yours, hopefully we can get them to you somehow. PM me, i guess. ian.
  2. Climbed to Burgundy Cul on 5/21/06. We found the creek to be very high and spent too long looking for a log to cross. Ended up hiking south along the creek for about 3/4 mile to find a solid log crossing -- there is a good log with good bark which you can walk across. Our mistake was in not traversing back N. to the intersection with the good climbers trail that heads up towards the w. face of silver star. If Burgundy Col is your objective, you might want to take GPS coordinates for where that trail starts and just make sure you are on it. Its easy to get up into the wrong creak drainage and have to do some painful side hilling. ian.
  3. This is the point I chose to split this debate off from the Accident in Leavenworth thread that inspired this somewhat wide ranging tussle about matters not directly related to the accident. Feel free to continue your wrasslin' here, but leave the current accident and it's severely injured victim out of it please. -- Off White My best to the injured climber, may he make a swift recovery! The first pitch is as catbirdseat says, dirty, sandy, but not steep (4th class i suppose). I roped up, but placed no pro. To answer Gary's question: The final pitch is notoriously hard to protect. There is a shallow crack that you can place a small nut in. I did when i climbed it last year, but it was pretty psychological. There used to be a pocket that a small tricam would go in, but it appears to have blown out. Its a very short friction slab, maybe two moves of 5.4 (?) on a summit block sitting on top of the tower. There has been talk of putting in a bolt to protect the final move, probably not a bad idea. As to the climb: its a good place to take novices looking for adventure. The location is kinda cool, you get a good view up to Rat Creek drainage and the patagonia-esqe spires up there -- the Mole, etc.
  4. Climbed at Moon Rocks on Sunday. Met a local at the parking area for Royal Columns (our original destination). He said Royal Columns and the Bend were opening on Saturday April 1st. Which is consistent with the beta given in the "Weekend Rock! Washington" Book. Actually saw a Golden Eagle in the area too, which was cool. ian.
  5. Lost the handle to my shovel on the Muir snowfield or parts thereabout on Saturday 12/10. Perhaps on the way up, or on the way down, or as i put my gear back in the wagon. If you find it, or if you have an orphaned shovel handle to one of these large metal Voile shovels, that would thanks, ian.
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