This is the point I chose to split this debate off from the Accident in Leavenworth thread that inspired this somewhat wide ranging tussle about matters not directly related to the accident. Feel free to continue your wrasslin' here, but leave the current accident and it's severely injured victim out of it please. -- Off White
My best to the injured climber, may he make a swift recovery!
The first pitch is as catbirdseat says, dirty, sandy, but not steep (4th class i suppose). I roped up, but placed no pro.
To answer Gary's question:
The final pitch is notoriously hard to protect. There is a shallow crack that you can place a small nut in. I did when i climbed it last year, but it was pretty psychological. There used to be a pocket that a small tricam would go in, but it appears to have blown out. Its a very short friction slab, maybe two moves of 5.4 (?) on a summit block sitting on top of the tower. There has been talk of putting in a bolt to protect the final move, probably not a bad idea.
As to the climb: its a good place to take novices looking for adventure. The location is kinda cool, you get a good view up to Rat Creek drainage and the patagonia-esqe spires up there -- the Mole, etc.