layedback
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Posts posted by layedback
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To my young boys (Caleb and Sage) Captain Jim is kind of a super hero. Their favorite night time stories are of the climbing adventures Jim and I have shared. I was so touched by the fact that even my 10 year old boy told his teacher that his friend Jim had fallen off of a cliff and died over the weekend. Jim was a friend, climbing partner and mentor to many.
To Jim's family, I am so sorry for your loss. The one thing I can say is that your life has been truly blessed by the years you have had with Jim.
If your kids (or you) ever need to hear of the adventures Captain Jim and I have shared please call me at any time, I am so pleased to relive these moments again and again.
Cody
541-954-9678
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John Fieh,
Hey what did you guys climb at the perch, heading there for my second time at the end of the month.
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Tenatively planning on climbing the Tangerine Trip next week. Any advise on the snow pack on top, condition of the descent slabs, alternative walk offs?
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When I see that 15' of finger nail width dirt filled crack in a guide or see peaple even top roping that seam, I stop putting the knife blade in it.
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My considerations are:
#Is the route an established free climb or could it be?
#How were the original lines put up at the crag?
#Can clean pro be used instead?
#Is the assent method damaging the crag?
#Are there established regulation or assent ethic not being considered (i.e. no power drills, ground up bolting, no fixed anchors)?
Keep in mind this issue is about driving one knifeblade to protect a aid traverse in a section that will not take clean pro and is out of the main climbing aria.
The colums is not the place to hammer your way to the top, or even practice driving pins. That said if I have a line I climb that requires a pin to protect and I have carefully considered all the items I mentioned above, then I have no issue with putting the pin in.
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The next wall I am training for is Tangerine Trip.
I was climbing at Skinners Butte.
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In prep for a big wall I was doing a bit of aid climbing at a local crag. I drove a nife blade in a dirt filled fingernail width crack for the only protection I could get for quite a ways. I recieved some "negative comments" from a climber for driving the pin. My position is - No one will ever free climb this crack, the traverse requires a pin to protect, and its out of the main route aria. I would be the first to protest if I saw someone nailing on exablished or potential routes, but have no issue with placing a pin where I did.
I could use some some additional feed back on the issue.
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Speaking of hammers, I am looking for a light weight hammer for the purpose of cleaning nuts on clean routes, any suggestions?
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Looking for motivated 5.10 gym partner. Could even take it out doors weather permitting. Me- 16 years climbing, sport, trad, big wall aid, 36 years old, 2 boys, what else can I say??? Any takers?
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Men over X
in Spray
Archenemy, Are you free this weekend? I have no hang up with you bringing home the beacon. Will you fry it up too? Might the problem be that successful women tend to be very aggressive women?
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This year has sucked so santa better come thruough
Bivy ledge
11 mm lead line
Static rope
Pro Traxion
Haul bag
full set of pins
year supply of beer
gas card
...
Muffy you aren't so bad.
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Bubbas... is it the cascading rocks from my partner leading the last pitch or the bolt that broke from side load from the lead line that make the route most memorable... I had a great time on the route, I found it very challenging and exciting (A-3). The belay bolts are good, and I believe the larger angles should be sawed angles. Broken bolt at start of 3rd (?) pitch should add yet a bit more challenge to the route.
Afive- out of your list what would you suggest, how is the great roof?
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Hey Retired, just keep me posted on Dec. 17, 18 and we may just give some of these a try...
CP
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I plan on getting some smith aid routes in this winter and looking for suggestions, so far I have done Bubus in Bondage (parking lot wall), Monkey Face (NW passage, east, and west face routes), what else is there especially of some length in the A-2 - A-3 range???
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I use the ushba and the m-traxion pending on the situation, I have made the mistake though of grabbing the usba in a fall and zipping down the rope for 10' prior to releasing the usba and stopping. If you rotate the ushba foreward it will slide down the rope due to the lack of teeth on the cam, also seems possible if the rope was over weighted on an overhanging route route you could zip to the ground (assuming you had no back up knots). I like the usba because you do not have to remove it from the rope for wrapping, just rotate and hold. On overhanging or scarry routes I use the m-traxion, on verticle or less routes I use the usba.
Tying into the rope below the devise will create slack and that creates the potenial of taking a dynamic fall on the device. Sounds bomber but could cause damage to the rope and the devise. Wieght the rope lighly and tie a back up knot in the rope to keep off the deck. And climb as though you were free soloing.
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Tibloc? thats the only devise I have ever used that ruined a rope. I was lowering/cleaning an overhanging route I had just solo aided using the tibloc upside down to pull back in to the rock (fixed anchor at the bottum) to get to the next piece down to clean. I unclipped the upper piece and swung out, expecting the tibloc to catch, it snagged 7 feet of seath prior to catching. User error? Most likely but I totally lost confidence in the tibloc and ruined a new rope.
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Useing gear other then for the intended use seems like a very bad idea.
Tell me this isn't true - Jim Anglin
in Climber's Board
Posted
The service was incredible, there were over 20 fire trucks and rescue vehicles that showed up. In Jim's career as a fire fighter and EMT, his fellow workers experienced Jim as us climbers did, they too would walk into any fire with Jim at their side...