Wild_Bill

Climb: Pan Dome Falls-Indirect Not Enough Screws Variation Date of Climb: 12/13/2005 Trip Report: The ice was a bit thin, brittle, seeping, dinner platey, and much of it had snow and/or water underneath it. There were sections that looked pretty good, but those sections were typcially a thin crust of weak ice with loose snow messy crap underneath. So, you know, it was alright for Pan Dome. We started at the obvious starting section, and then traversed over to the right about midway up and setup a belay in the trees, as I was low on screws (especially short screws). We continued up the right side to avoid making the traverse again, which was kind of a mistake in reterospect. The right side, although moderate in angle, was quite horrible in terms of conditions. Again, just really thin on bad ice. The left side is obviously steeper, but it's of much higher quality than the right side. Bring enough screws for a 50m climb on Baker-quality ice in December. Overall the climbing was okay and the ice "is in", but be selective with your line. Gear Notes: Plenty of small screws. Approach Notes: Despite the new snow, the plowers/groomers hooked us up pretty well.

Climb: Hannegan Pass Area- Date of Climb: 10/29/2005 Trip Report: An attempt of Ruth Mountain was diverted to Hannegan Peak as 12 to 18 inches of fresh snow had fallen overnight and into the morning. From the parking lot, we could only see what looked like a dusting up above, but by the time we reached Hannegan Pass, we were nearly up to our knees. The snow was falling heavily, and the visibility was exceedingly poor. After unsucessfully looking for but not knowing where to find the "climbers trail" for Ruth, we headed up to Hannegan Peak to at least accomplish something, (aside from a cold snowy bushwack to an unseen destination). The forecast called for a couple of inches, mainly falling during the day. As it was, much more snow than forecasted fell the previous night. The idea had been to get on something that could be climbed in any weather before the season was over. We were a bit late. Alas, the mountains are begining their build up for winter conditions. In the meantime, I'll begin my anual tranistion/depression period of watching the rain, while waiting for couliers to fill and waterfalls to freeze. Time to head east for a while. Gear Notes: Should of had: Trekking poles with snow baskets, snowshoes, better knowledge of where to find the Ruth trail head. Approach Notes: Snow started about a mile up the trail. About 12" by the pass, 18" or so at 6000'. S