FFCS
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I'll try to video the high power rifle ice removal and post it!
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My wife and I went over to Banks on Wednesday the 27th. The temp @ 1100 was 25F, Our plan was to climb the punchbowl. I even brought a .22 along to shoot down the ice. Upon our arrival a couple from Idaho just beat us there. Talked to the guy a little and told him that I had a gun to shoot down the ice, he looked at me like I was crazy. So there went our plan for the punch bowl. As far as deathcicles, there are more than normal, and two large ones over the right side, not even a question as to wether it was unsafe to climb without shooting down the ice. BTW the ice looked awesome and phat on the punch bowl. So, we headed to electric ave; nothing in, salt n pepper good at top, Zenith looked awesome if you rap in or don't mind a mixed start on manky rock. Then we headed back to see if the party was off the punch bowl just in time to see a rather large cicle break off and explode all over the route. Luckily the party was just pulling there ropes and barely missed a beating. We'll head bakc next week with an earlier start and a high powered rifle to take care of the cicles.
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Definately want a 4X4 in the ghost, saves a lot of headache. As far as routes, I agree that THOS is a great route, and it does have some longer and steeper pitches farther up the drainage. I don't think it's the climbing so much as the surroundings that make the THOS route a great experience. Check out valley of the birds in the ghost as well. Professor Falls is a great intro to canada ice, big, blue, plastic, reliable, with steps to provide relief and chain anchors. Just get an early start for Professor. Grotto falls if it's in, is also a good warm up climb with a cool approach.
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Still for sale, and still a steal!
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1 pair of Garmont Tower GTX for sale, size 8, great light weight alpine boot. Worn only 4 times, in great condition. Purchased a year ago for $250, now selling for $100 OBO. Will ship or meet in and around Seattle, PM me for more info.
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Corrections, the permits are for the 23, can be picked up on the 22nd, also I now have 4 permits for sale.
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Two permits for St. Helens, August 22, 23. Climb it before it shuts down again! PM me for details.
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Mens Patagonia Dimension Jacket, Size: medium, Color: tar/black, Condition: worn 6 times. Great alpine soft shell, durable, light, breathable. $175 OBO
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There are climbs harder than 5.9 at Vantage and Leavenworth? I thought they were all 5.9. It's amazing where a question about a guide book will go.
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Forgot that too, probably useful info, it's a size medium, and for people not familiar with the jacket it is a medium to heavy weight fleece.
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Forgot this part, PM me if interested.
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Three items for sale, will post pics Monday 1.) Old school The North Face Denali Jacket (fleece); color red, size medium, with black taslan reinforced shoulders and elbows, in great shape. $25 2.) Smith District Slider Sunglasses; color blue, sharp looking sunglasses, with three sets of lenses (polarized, yellow, and amber), with carry case, frames are in excellent shape, but the polarized set of lenses have a few minor scratches. Paid $110, asking $50 OBO 3.) 1 pair of Salomon Super Mtn Guide boots, mens size 8, have seen some use, but have many years left in them. Selling because they are size too small, are awesome ice climbing/ alpine/ glacier boots. Asking $50 OBO
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If you have used boots long enough, you know how a boot is going to perform based on the intial walking around the house for a day. I guess for me using this web site is a great information source, and I appreciate it when people post on products they are happy with, even if they are just commenting on the quality of a product. Personally, I don't care to spend my time looking for posts to bash, sorry if it wasted your time. Yes, Mountain Tools in California.
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Just thought I would let people know about a great product I just purchased. Just got my new Ice Masters yesterday, and they are awesome boots. Great fit, light, well built. Look forward to trying them out on some ice shortly. I looked at Kayland M11's (couldn't find them), and La Sprtiva Trango Ice Evo's (too much heel lift)originally but found these boots on sale at Mountain Gear. The staff at Mountain Gear are really helpful, and knowledgeable. They fit the boots perfectly after I faxed them a tracing of my foot. Would definately recommend these boots to anyone looking for a comfortable, light, warm boot, and for $298 can't beat the price.
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K2 makes a set of boot dryers that don't use heat. They look like bean bags. Supposed to work great, no heat damage etc. I use the Peet dryer but I think it gets a little too warm. Will be buying the K2 dryers next month.
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The enclosure is rated poorly because the shell didn't repel moisture as well, I think they said it was a little too form fitting as well. I own a DAS and an enclosure ( got the enclosure for free). I use the DAS as a belay parka and the enclosure as an around towner. Dirty harry's right try the patagucci outlet in Dillon, I got mine there for $140.
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The cascade creags idea is good, I might have to try that. What is that foam like anyway? Can you wail at it or is it more of a delicate hooking thing? The lift is not the rocker, and I had them tight. Although, the size was wrong I think. I will be getting a larger size, and doing some kind of moldable insole. Has anyone tried the double insole or even just those new microwave insoles?
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Believe me , I couldn't figure it out either. I tried these boots on in a shop, stood on the toes, and my heels slowly lifted about an inch. The size I tried was a half size small for me. I tried the evo gtx version and had this problem, so when i tried the ice evo's I thought for sure I wouldn't have any lift. Not so, I think that maybe these might not be the right boot for me, which sucks because they are awesome boots. I have heard that doing an after market insole would eliminated this problem. Who knows, would like to try the M11 on to see how it fits. I also tried on a newer Salomon boot on and had no lift.
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The lift is an inch or so, when standing on the toes heels out in the open. My previous boots were Salomon Super Mountain 9 guides. The lacing system on the la sportivas has a good behind the heel lacing system, but still could not eliminate the lift. Have never tried either boots. Want to buy the right boot if I am going to spend 4 bills. These will be WI boots with occasional alpine and glacier slogging. Frieh, have your M11 been warm enough? Where did you get them?
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Looking at trango ice evos or M11's. Anyone try either? Have tried trango ice evos but had a little heel lift in them. Anyone with trango ice evos have heel lift problems? If so where you able to correct them? Don't know much about M11's, read a good review of them but would like some long term reviews. Thanks
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DAS parka is the way to go, hands down.
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Update on the tools, $200, theres got to be someone out there that wants a screamin' deal.