arentz

I have a pair of Grivel's, which I'm really pleased with. I have a climbing partner who also raves about his bd crampons. I'm not sure the two brands are all that differents (mine have pretty aggresive secondary points as well). And I agree with the other post... stemming is your friend. cheers

I know one tool was mentioned, but top roping with no tools, using ice features for your hands, forces you to use your feet in a very different way. Almost feels like rock climbing, which has helped me a lot on steeper ice. I also learned this year in Alaska that climbing ice with a heavy pack rapidly improves your footwork. I share your broad experience with different crampons (i started out with vertical dual points, switched to vertical mono's and now climb exclusively on horizontal dual points). All of them work, but I like the horizontal points most on mixed terrain. They seem more stable to me. Here's to a good ice season

sugar... I meant I have a pair of silvretta 404's, not 440's

I got a pair of Silveretta 440's used on ebay for 80 bucks. Work great with my ice climbing boots and have decent up and down performance. I have used them for long ice climbing/mountaineering approaches and have been pretty satisfied. Have fun up north. cheers

I would like to see a "conditions" section in the ice climbing forum. There is a website, neice.com, that i used to use back east. They did a great job with this. Just updated contditions reports seperated by location (lworth, baker, snoqualmie, rainier, etc.) . No spray. I be happy to bring a camera and contribute during the winter months, and It would make those long drives worth it more of the time. arentz

check your pms matt

Good to hear you are doing better. Not to belabor the point, but there is data for both vitamin C and asprin if taken for the first 5-7 days after frostbite exposure. A drug called pentoxifylline, which is only available by prescription in the states, might also be worth asking your doctor about IF you keep having problems in that limb every time you are out in the cold. Probably helps most with more severe frostbite, but overall it decreases the area affected. Also might be true for ibuprofen and other stuff you can buy at a drug store, but I don't think the data is as strong for that. Frostbite is much more common at altitudes over 5000 meters/17,000 feet, so be extra careful on those big climbing trips to asia. Lastly, if you ever see blisters, especially bloody ones, bypass your doctor and go to the emergency department. I'm a physician. I've done high altitude research and been an expedition doctor over in Nepal. If you want a recomendation on a local doc that knows more about high altitude/mountaineering problems, pm me. cheers, arentz

pm sent arentz

I know its late notice but I'm looking for someone to climb with tomorrow. I'd rather do trad (?5.7-5.8ish) but could also be swindled into sport climbing, crag cllimbing or anything else short of bouldering. I'm new to the area, so I was thinking leavenworth (since it's the only place I have a guide for). If you are familiar with another locale, I'd be in for that. Would also be in for moderate alpine if you're familiar. I live in Seattle, I can drive if you're on the way, and I have a rack. Pm me or call (206)999-1933 if your interested. cheers, matt

I'm new to the area... just moved from the northeast (vermont) with the gf. Now i'm in seattle with lots of mountains and no one to climb with. I work shifts at the local hospital (15 a month) which means I have lots of days off. Mostly did multipitch trad back east (5.7 or 5.8 trad leader) and I have my own rack. Haven't gotten to climb as much as I would like recently, and I used to climb 5.10 slabs and cracks back east, so I have room to improve if you climb harder than me. Mostly interested in long rock/ice/mountaineering routes in the cascades/squamish/the bc but also interested in day trips to some of the local pacific northwest areas. If you're partner just bailed on you for another part of the country, and you're looking for someone new, let me know. I'll be in seatle for at least a few years. pm me if your interested. thanks arentz