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StreetBoss

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Posts posted by StreetBoss

  1. HAHAHAHAHAH...its a fucking donkey show now.

     

    If you come after 10:00am you won't get a spot at Murrin.

     

    if you come after 10:30am you won't get a spot in the expanded Smoke Bluff parking lot (but maybe across the street?)

     

    You can guess what that means for line ups at Neat and Cool.

     

     

    Update:

     

    Climbed at The Smoke Bluffs one day last week. It was during the week and NO ONE was there. Felt melancholy from years ago when we could walk up and do any of the routes. So, that's just what we did. Wonderful Day.

     

    Climbed at a newer area called Area 44 - the easy approach and route descriptions at the base were eerily like the Brian Burdo crags at Little Si and Mazama. Relatively crowded, meaning any 5.11 was open, and many 5.10 climbs available. The rock climbs like the formerly mentioned as well. Good experience.

     

    climb the Grand via Apron Strings. Shuffling along Bellygood ledge I was nearly in tears because it had been so long since I've been up the route and one of such high quality. Did this on a Tuesday with only one party two pitches behind us.

     

    The smoke in the area made for lousy views when hiking with the family. The High Note Trail is spectacular. Also hiked the second peak of The Chief. Great trip.

     

    :yoda:

  2. Need some beta!

     

    So I used to climb at Squamish a lot. Like all through the 90's and used to know all areas and most of the routes.

     

    BUT

     

    Haven't been there in 10 years so I know there been lots of changes, upgrades and more folks climb. I've kept up with climbing so the grades are not the problem. What I'm hoping to find out is:

     

    If we drive from Seattle to Squamish on a Saturday morning and climb the rest of the day, are the Smoke Bluffs or Penny Lane like out of the question because it will be insanely busy? What about parking?

     

    Here's a throw back story. There was a forest road next to the established campground back in the day. We'd climb The Grand or Exasperator then chill with a camp fire. Now there is a beautiful tent campground. And oh yeah, back then Diedre used to be a wilderness experience.

     

    Peace

    :yoda:

  3. Just heard there was a rappelling accident over in Mazama yesterday. The first reports are the rappel knot untied. No judgment or speculation on my part, just wanting to know the details to better equip myself.

     

    Be safe - climb your ass off - have fun

     

  4. I was watching ancient videos of Catherine Destivelle soloing amazingly hard stuff on Youtube, I never realized how amazingly bold she was!

     

    I personally don't care about the top grade, I'd rather see Hazel Findlay send the gnar with holds breaking all over the place.

     

    Catherine is pretty hot in some of those video's! Good golly.

     

    My vote is for Paige Clausen - total hottie

  5. I whole heartedly agree with SOL, that with commitment we can do anytime.

     

    Well here's my 2cent

     

     

    1) Have climbed,

    * McKinly (2), Aconcagua (1), Alpamayo

    * Rebel Yell - North Cascades

    * Torment-Forbidden Traverse solo

    * Darkness at Noon - Smith Rock

    * Nose - Yosemite

    * Levitation 29 - Vegas

     

    2) Capable of but have not climbed.

    * Everest

    * Trango Tower

    * Girth Pillar - Mt Stewart

    * Model Worker - Index (always fall off at the end)

    * Clean Break - North Cascades

     

     

    3) Admire but will never climb.

    * It's all possible

  6. Am I the only one that thinks the 3rd pitch traverse on Outer Space is 5.9d/10a or am I just that much of a sissy? Bring it...

     

    Lots of guys like you have cried like a school girl. Once you figure out the sequence....it's straight forward climbing.

     

    :yoda:

  7. This is just in from Eddie Espinoza the AAC Regional Coordinator here in the PNW. Please spread the word.

     

     

     

    "There is an active peregrine falcon nest on the Beach ledge in the Cheeks area, on the right side of the Index Upper Town Wall. The young birds are about to fledge. Washington State Parks and the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife have asked that climbers not climb or work on projects in the area during the next three weeks, until July 7, 2012.

     

    The closure area includes all routes beginning and ending at the Beach ledge, starting from Engines of Archimedes on the west and including the Perverse Traverse. You can still hike along the base of the wall. You can also still climb one-pitch climbs in the Zipper area (e.g., Zipper first pitch, Active Boys Puke A Lot, Attractive Nuisance). Please respect this closure for the benefit of the young falcons and the future of climbing at the Index Town Walls."

     

    :yoda:

  8. made it look 5.10, you got cool kids rudy :)

     

    So right! I think I can do it cus it looks so easy...he skipped a draw, hmm the holds are close enough for a shrimp to reach them.....hmmm, oh yeah, no helmet. If I train hard enough will it make me 12 years old again???

     

    :yoda:

  9. Kevbone doesn't have the moral fiber and work ethics to even comprehend the degree of hard work and commitment it takes to achieve such level of body/mind control.

     

    not that i'm necessarily defending kevbone here, but your post raises some interesting questions about "performance", and doing "well" in anything one might do...

     

    firstly, it seems kevbone has a pretty high degree of proficiency with the guitar. i would think this would lead him to have some understanding of the processes involved in "mastery" (high skill level) of a particular medium of expression, right? i wouldn't dismiss him simply because he chimed in with a perhaps misunderstood comment. (btw, is it "spray" every time you play your guitar in front of somebody, kevbone?)

     

    secondly, is "moral fiber" really a requirement for "sports performance" of any kind? seems like too many counter-examples everywhere to even go here. and "work ethic"? isn't this a rather puritanical approach to "climbing", simply reducing it to two such criteria seemingly devoid of the fun and passion that might be the ideal driving forces in any endeavor we partake in?

     

    words words words.

     

     

     

    Well, climbing a run-out 5.11 slab after climbing a 14a section hardly compares to a "danger" of playing a guitar. I think playing guitar will never result in joint sparins and bone fractures, long falls can..... just saying...

     

    Ummm... I don't think he got the point?

    :noway:

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