phouse

Picked up a Mammut Genesis [Double Dry, 8.5mm, 60m] rope last night. Still pursuing a third person. Current plan is the Park/Boulder Cleaver Route (not a very technical route apparently). Given the variability and uncertainty of the glacier(s) would it be prudent to buy/bring a couple ice screws? If so, what are your recommendations on size, style, number, etc?

I've got a thread in the "Climbing Partners" forum ("Baker - third week of August") looking for a third. I want to get back to a previous question I had (not answered)... what glacier conditions can we expect on Baker in the middle of August? Dry, wet, heavily crevassed, lots of hidden crevasses, good/bad/nonexistant snow bridges, etc?? A second questioned I'd asked was regarding a few kinds of ropes (see above) - any input/replies there? I'm leaning towards one of the Mammuts - any thoughts?

So what kind of glacier conditions can we expect in mid-August on Baker's N/NE/E faces? We're currently planning on spending time on the Rainbow or Mazama glaciers to practice and then will climb up the Park/Boulder Cleaver route. Thanks for the info.

Hi all! My brother and I will be on Baker the third week of August. We plan on basecamping around the Portals or Flats (any suggestions/recommendations, pointers there?), spending a couple days practicing glacier travel and crevasse rescue on the Rainbow, Mazama, or Park glaciers (again, any suggestions?), and making summit attempts on the 17th or 18th. Here's a thread with some trip background. It's just the two of us (so far) and we're relatively unexperienced (don't let that scare you away). We're looking for someone with some experience to join us for a day or two of practice and to (at the very least) join us in our summit attempt. PM me if interested - or post here and make it a learning experience for all! Thanks and cheers

Thanks for the replies - much appreciated feedback. Unfortunately the residuals from the hurricane will be sitting around all weekend BUT yes Macson, there are some crags (Great Falls) just a couple minutes out of DC we've spent some time at. We plan on getting together this weekend anyway and just practicing setup, rope management, etc (there's another recent thread on crevasse rescue floating around). I think I'll pursue an 8-9mm 50m rope. Any suggestions? What experience do people have and think about the Mammut Universe and Genesis ropes, Blue Water Excellence, Beal Cobra II, and Sterling Marathon Half?

is 30m enough rope for a two-man (gaining experience) glacier travel team? background: my brother and I (he, Philly; me, DC) are spending two weeks in mid-August around Baker. The first week will be our collective first trip to a real glacier where we plan on practicing the things we've read in FOTH, The Mountaineers Handbook, and Selter's crevasse rescue book around Rainbow Glacier. That week will culminate in a summit attempt of Baker via the Park-Boulder Cleaver route. Second week we'll be working along the PCT with AHS doing trail maintenance. I've got plenty of questions, this is just a first step.