JeffG

What the photo of the upper glacier doesn't really show is that the pitch changes to the right of the schrund and the snow angle really steepens. On this weekend the snow was too soft for pickets to be of any use so this was not an option. Maybe under firmer snow conditions ... Rock on left side of schrund (and north ridge in general) is poor and crumbly.

Anybody have recent info on the Jefferson Park Glacier route or the condition of the summit pinnacle? Am heading there this weekend -- any info is appreciated.