Climb: Mount Hood-Reid Glacier
Date of Climb: 5/13/2006
Trip Report:
I knew we were going to have a great climb when we arrived at T-line at midnight and you could see all of Mount Hood in the moonlight. With headlamps stowed away in our packs, we made our way up Palmer in a spectacular setting!
Because of the great weather (and full moon) many were attracted to Mount Hood, particularly the South Route. I even saw a guy at the top of Palmer wearing blue jeans and a cotton T-Shirt (not recommended attire). Fortunatly, we had our eyes set on Leuthold, so we bid the crowd (and Cotton Man) adieu and moved toward Illumination Saddle.
We could not have asked for a better night - full moon, clear sky and minimal wind. The snow was perfect and the traverse across Reid went well.
Hood's Shadow at Sunrise
Reid Glacier Traverse
However, the weather was a bit too nice, and upon arriving at Leuthold, we were met with quite a bit of rock and ice chunks whizzing by. Realizing it was only going to get worse as it got warmer, we moved over to Reid Glacier HW. We began our ascent, only to be met with more rock and ice. This, however, coming from a party of 5-6 roped up ahead of us and not making very much progress. (We watched them for about 20 minutes with no apparent movement)
It was now about 7:30 am, and we decided to check out a few of the crevasses on the glacier and then head back down.
Crevasse at the base of Leuthold
Although we didn't summit, it was still a great day on the mountain. Oh, and if you've never climbed Hood on a full moon, get it on your itinerary ASAP!
Gear Notes:
Crampons, Helmet, Ice Axe, Rope, M&Ms and Smoked Almonds