[August Ice Climbing on Glaciers]

Planning on climbing Rainier this August, on the Kautz glacier and was wondering if our party could spend an extra day and do some ice climbing on some crevasses, etc. Is this possible or are there some better places to hit up some ice in the WA area? Thanks.

[WANTED: Mountaineering Gear]

I'm looking for

 

1) Waterproof/breatheable lightweight bivy

2) Ice Screws

3) 36" Snow Picket

4) Gaiters (must be waterproof/breatheable)

5) Pulley

6) 2 Petzl Tibloc

7) Used Ice Tools (give me some specs)

8) Glacier Glasses

[NEWBIE with questions on Kautz Glacier this August]

If not the Kautz Glacier Route, what would be a good route to hit up around August 12th?

[NEWBIE with questions on Kautz Glacier this August]

I began mountaineering this last semester while in Chile. I've rocked climbed for 3 years. While in Chile, I climbed numberous volcanoes, took an ice climbing course which included glacier rescue techniques, setting up anchors on shoe and ice, etc.

 

I feel that this experience will be sufficent for a 3-man party on Kautz Glacier route on Rainer sometime after August 12th, 2005. I have purchased the guide book, looked over the route, have all the available gear, pickets, screws, rope, tools, axes, etc.

 

I was wondering what exactly I should be expecting the bivy site around camp Hazard, the glacier travel on Kautz (in terms of crevasses, etc) and then the descent. What equipment/gear I should bring during this time of year? The guide book although excellent does not go into great detail about the route. I was wondering if any of you could give me some advise, recommendations, or beta on anything in general about the mountain and specifically the route. Will I need pickets, what I can expect, etc. Thanks a lot!!! And sorry this is so long.

[What kind of ROPE should I buy?]

My question is what type of rope should I get for a 3 person team going up the Kautz Glacier on Rainer this August? I already have a 60m, 10.5mm DRY rope but feel that is way to big and too heavy. I have been looking at "Mammut Revelation 9.2mm x 60m Dry Rope" and the like. Would this be good for Rainer and other mountains in my future. What would be some of your suggestions. Thanks!