ATCR1

All great advice. Thanks. Yeah I have a old climbing buddy from Texas who is going to try and make it. But I have been taking a serious look at past conditions during that time. Looks 50/50 either it will be a go-getter, or a true harrowing alpine event. Depending on the conditions a week or so out we might bail. Any other's who have climbed or been chased off during early Oct I would appreciate hearing you experience. Thanks again

Thanks for the advice. Yeah I can see it going either way.

Looking to head to the Teton range Oct 1st-8th. First time there and would like to climb the Grand via the Owens route. I have high altitiude climbing experience on Shasta, Hood, Rainier, Whitney, Washington. Rock climbing experience includes, almost a decade of Yosemite and the Lake Tahoe region. Also have all equip needed and will bring it if need be. Looking for someone comfortable with exposure since the climb is not that challenging. No time to teach on this trip, so you need to comfortable with 5.6 and belaying. LMK Jason

Climb: Mt Shasta-Sargents ridge Date of Climb: 2/10/2006 Trip Report: Arrived Friday afternoon, and climbed to 9100ft in the old ski bowl on the most prominant rib leading up to Sargents ridge. Started climbing around 2:30am under an almost full moon. Conditions leading up to about Shastarama point were really good. Snow was corniced on the eastern side of the ridge, stick to the left side. Above Shastarama point Rhime ice and Sastrugi were incredibly large and sweeping on the wind-ward side of the ridge. This slows down upwards progress considerably. I bailed to the eastern side and wound up right above the mud and konwakiton glaciers. This includes some steep 80 degree slopes. Be carefull not to stray to far down, glacier is littered with sevral crevasses and a giant 90 degree snow cover Bergshrund. Topped out near the red banks, avoid passing the Thumb on the eastern side as well, another huge Bergshrund. Misery hill still sucks, just a hump up an ice slope. Summit plateau, was a mix of mostly corn snow and sun cups. Overall a great ridge climb, suggest decent by way of green butte or avalanche gulch early, due to prevailing rockfall on Sargents in the afternoon. Weather was suberb, as was the almost moon. Sastrugi and ice formations definatley were the biggest problems. Don't underestimate time required. I almost didn't make my summit turn around time. Climbing ascent time totaled about 8 hrs. Descent back down avalanche gulch cutting east over Green butte ridge back into the ski bowl around 3-4 hrs. Overall mileage including hike in and out approx 15-20 miles. Gear Notes: used several ice/snow tent stakes to hold tent down, @ snow anchors, crampons, mountain axe. Mostly typical gear. Would have been nice to have a secong ice tool/ace for short steeper climbs up eastern snow chutes. Approach Notes: snow shoes/skis required to advance up from bunny flat into the ski bowl

A high pressure ridge has settled over Northern california, and mt shasta is looking great. I'm headed up there Thursday-Sat or sunday to do the Sargents ridge, or West face gully routes, Anyone interested? Don't bother to PM me since i leave tomorrow. Just call my cell (707) 301-2106

Mostly they sell cheap crappy gear in Europe to people who don't know any better. Cassin gear is generally junk. I too wonder how they stay in business but I can't understand why you would want to buy any? I have seen several reviews of their new gear (mountain axes, not cams and stuff, but thanks anyway people) Online at climbing, rock and ice, also several reviews elswhere and their new stuff specifically the X-class of mountaineering axes and they are supposed to function exceptionally well. I'm not about buying just because thats what everyone else has. If it works great, if not then its crap, but i have had black diamond and Grivel, both supposed to be great name brands and i hated them both. BD quality was shit in my opinion, and the grivel couldn't hold an edge to save its life, oh and it rusted after every trip. So i decided to give Cassin a try. If its crap then thats what it is, and i'll return it, but alot of good stuff comes from lesser names, just my 2 cents though.

Thanks, unfortunatley i called climbaxe right before posting. They no longer carry Cassin either, just closeout and discontinued stuff. I'm starting to wonder how Cassin stays in business when no one sells their new products.

Thanks but i talked to the salesperson at Barrabes and they can not get the new Cassin gear. I also sent in the online request twice. Its been over 3 weeks and no replies. Looks like i'm back to zero. Any other suggestions?

Cassin just came out with a new line of mountaineering axes such as the x-tour and x-pro. Does anyone know where you can purchase Cassin gear in the states? I have talked to shops from Portland to NY and no luck, not even in stores from the UK. Someone must sell the stuff.

Thanks tomtom, now we're talking

Thats what i bought and then returned. A 8mm x 30m The problem is that this is the only diameter avilable in a 30m length and its for hiking. It cannot take a fall into a crevasse, or anything of the sort. To do so they recommend using 2 ropes, so i'm back to square 1.

I am in need of a new rope, since my older 9.6 modified one has ben retired. I am looking for a single rope, dynamic, Dry 9.6 or bigger but only 30m long for glacial travel and crevasse rescue. I don't want to have to chop a 60m in half again, and i don't want to use a 2 rope system like most 8mm on the market recommend. I have only found one online store who will cut my rope to the desired length, but its not a dry and thats what i would prefer. Does anyone have any advice on this? Thanks

Interested in finding a partner/s to climb the owen/spalding route up the Grand around the first week of March.